Peru has always possessed good potential to produce quality coffee. The “terroir” for coffee is excellent, altitudes, soils, climate. A great PeruPeruvian coffees have Central American brightness but in a South American coffee flavor package overall. The good organic lots do have more of a “rustic” coffee character.: Organic… is a clean, wet-processed coffee with striking acidic brightnessA euphemistic term we use often to describe acidity in coffee. A bright coffee has more high, acidic notes. : A euphemistic term to describe acidity in coffee…., a clean cupClean cup refers to a coffee free of taints and defects. It does not imply sanitary cleanliness, or that coffees that are not clean (which are dirty) are…, moderate fruit or floralFloral notes in coffee exemplify the connection between taste and smell. Describing the taste of a specific flower is near impossible…we always default to “it tastes like it… hints, and good basic sweetnessSweetness is an important positive quality in fine coffees, and is one of five basic tastes: Sour, Sweet, Salty, Bitter, Savory (Umami). In coffee, sweetness is a highly…. The dominant aspect is the brightness.
Great Peru coffees are grown at exceptional altitudes, often above 1800 meters, and most of the plants are old TypicaA coffee cultivar; a cross between Typica and Bourbon, originally grown in Brazil: Mundo Novo is a commercial coffee cultivar; a natural hybrid between “Sumatra” and Red Bourbon,… varietyA botanical variety is a rank in the taxonomic hierarchy below the rank of species and subspecies and above the rank of form (form / variety / subspecies…. So with great altitude, great Typica varieties, and plenty of farmers to grow coffee, why is Peru not often found among first class coffees like small-farm ColombiaColombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with “Good” Coffee. This is half-true…. lots, or great high-grown GuatemalaGuatemalan coffee is considered a top quality coffee producer in Central America. Due to our proximity to Guatemala, some of the nicest coffees from this origin come to… coffees?
Excellent Peruvian coffees can be hard to find. To some degree, the success of Peru coffee has been it’s downfall. OrganicGrown without the use of artificial fertilizers, herbicides, etc.: Organic coffee has been grown according to organic farming techniques, typically without the use of artificial fertilizers. Some farms… certified Peru coffees are ubiquitous, always as close as your local Trader Joe’s, but the coffee is often poorly picked, processed and roasted, if it is even freshly roasted at all. We have been hard at work to establish stable relationships in Peru to gain access to the best coffees.
Peru is has usually been one of the cheapest origins for traders to source Organic certified coffees. It’s the “blender” coffee of Organics; it’s $4/Lb. roasted at Trader Joes, and it is threatening to lower prices for organic coffee farmers globally. The Peruvian coffee industry took note of the premium prices paid for Organic coffee, and realized they could produce Organic for less cost, focusing on quantity, not quality. They wanted to be to organic coffee what Vietnam is to robustaAteng is a common name for Catimor coffees widely planted in Sumatra and other Indonesia isles.: Ateng, with several subtypes, is a common name for Catimor coffees widely….
There are stories of forests being clear-cut for organic coffee farming (it takes 3 years for an existing farm to become certified organic… not so with a “new” farm). I doubt the image of cutting down forests to grow organic product is the image consumers have in mind … then again, it’s organic and it’s $4 per lb. roasted. Well, you get what you pay for.
Peruvian offerings are hardly mentioned in William Ukers’ 1936 edition of All About Coffee and have not been well thought of due to an indelicate, blunted acidity that doesn’t have the refinement of Centrals. I think a lot of this is historical bias because Peru can produce some very fine coffees. In general, these coffees have Central American brightness but in a South American coffee flavor package overall. The good organic lots do have more of a “rustic” coffee character, but mostly because of poor processingThe removal of the cherry and parchment from the coffee seed.: Coffee is either wet-processed (also called washed or wet-milled) or dry-processed (also called wild, natural or natural… practices. Coffees with flavors like this might be pleasant enough, but sweetness and fruitedIn some coffee taster’s lexicon, “fruity” means the coffee is tainted with fruit, and “fruited” means a coffee is graced by positive fruit notes. We don’t exactly see… notes can be unstable and might fade a few months after arrival in the US. We avoid these coffees.
It’s a lot of work to find a good lot among the abundance offered by brokers and other channels, although they can be found. We prefer to work in a more direct way to identify single farmers or small groups to import, and then we work with mills and exporters to get the coffee out intact. The journey overland, and processing facilities in the hotter coastal zones can kill a coffee if care is not taken.
I have been to Peru a few times, back in 2006 and then again when I acted as head judge of Peru Competition 2008. I went to visit the Quillabamba area more recently, and others have taken over on the trips since then.
See our current selection of Peruvian Coffees at Sweet Maria’s.
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