No, the Behmor 1600 Series Doesn’t Run Hotter than the 2000AB Plus

After Testing the Behmor 2000AB Plus and 1600 Plus Heating Elements, here’s what we found:

“The new Behmor’s don’t get as hot as the old ones!”. Or so they say. We’ve heard this story several times from customers after retiring their old Behmor in favor of a newer 2000 model. After unboxing the new machine and running a roast batch, their enthusiasm starts to fade as they notice the cooler maximum temperatures, even on the hottest roast settings. At least that’s what the LED readout would lead you to believe.

If this is you, rest assured that the Behmor 1600 series doesn’t run hotter than the 2000AB Plus. We were fooled at first by the thermistor readings too. But anecdotal evidence led us to believe otherwise and we’ve finally run some tests to prove it.

If you’ve read any of our Behmor roast profile posts, you’ve seen the warning of not overheating your machine. This typically applies to roasting in manual mode at the highest heat setting of P5 (100%), and means you have to switch between lower heat settings so that you don’t hit the over-temp shutdown (Err7 code), and blowing your roast batch.

A front view of the Behmor 2000AB and 1600 Plus home roasters side-by-side.
A front view of the Behmor 2000AB Plus and 1600 Plus home roasters side-by-side.

As of writing this post, all our Behmor roast articles were performed on the 1600 Plus, not the newer 2000 models, and there’s a big difference between how close they get to that high-heat threshold of roughly 325F. The 1600’s seem to have no problem getting that hot, even after the cooling fan has kicked in mid-way through the roast cycle. The newer 2000 models, however, barely break 300F on the internal sensor readings (B button), if at all.

Does the 2000 AB actually run cooler than the older 1600’s, or is there a change in thermometry affecting the temperature readings?

To begin answering this question, I ran identical roast batches on the 2000 AB and 1600 Plus models I have at home, comparing the minute-to-minute temperature changes on the A and B sensors (exhaust/chamber respectively), and overall roast times. To my surprise, the 1600 put up much higher temperature readings on the LED display, but the 2000 roasted the coffee faster, which obviously makes no logical sense!

I should mention that I recently upgraded my 1600 with the 2-speed motor and new control panel, which allows for manual roasting, and is supposed to have a faster refresh rate for reading thermistor temps. After the upgrade, I noticed slightly lower temperature readings than before. Now the chamber temperature maxes out around 310-315F, and I no longer have to toggle to lower heat settings in manual mode in order to avoid the dreaded high temp shutdown. That said, the temperature readings on the panel are still about 15-20F higher than the 2000.

The simplest way to solve this mystery was to install auxiliary thermocouples in my roasters.

The Behmor is not well-suited for an analog thermocouple, and that’s no big deal.

First, I’ll say that I don’t recommend adding a thermocouple to your Behmor. To me, the Behmor just isn’t suited for that type of modification. I’m constantly trying to speed up my roast, sticking to maximum heat rather than “profiling”. Fiddling with the heat settings will only slow things down.

But more than that, it’s difficult to mount an external probe on the Behmor, and I personally don’t think they provide information that’s more useful than what you already get from stock ones already (especially considering how the Behmor’s airflow causes the temp readings to go a little haywire once the fan kicks in!).

There are plenty of blog posts out there showing ways to add thermocouples to the Behmor – through the sidewall into the chamber, at the exhaust fan, and even drilling the drum “axle” to get a bean probe in the grid drum (though the beans never fall over that part of the grid drum, not to mention, I would hate having to remove my probe before and after each roast!). But even opting for the easiest entry point of the sidewall, you’re left deciding whether to drill a giant hole in the panel that allows you enough room to install the probe through it, or roasting without the panel in place. I really don’t think it’s worth it for anything other than testing!

Looking beneath the right side panel of the Behmor shows there is very little room to fit a thermocouple!
Looking beneath the right side panel of the Behmor shows there is very little room to fit a thermocouple!

I opted for a probe in the upper, left corner of the roast chamber (when facing the machine). All of the mechanics and electronics are mounted on the right side of the roaster, and it’s very difficult to squeeze in even something as small as a thermocouple. The left is basically a blank canvas, so drilling that side made sense. I removed the left-side panel of the Behmor, and drilled a small hole just above the top heating element where the probe would be mounted.

I wanted the thermocouples to be relatively close in proximity to the elements themselves in order to read how much heat they were putting out during the roast cycle. Being so close to the heat source, the readings are very high – a lot higher than if they were inside the drum with the coffee. They illustrate my point for this post, but won’t be very useful when comparing roasting notes with your friends (“…so yeah, first crack happened around 800F” lol).

Inside the Behmor roast chamber you can see the thermocouple placement just above the top heating element (the reflection makes it look like there are 2).
Inside the Behmor roast chamber you can see the thermocouple placement just above the top heating element (the reflection makes it look like there are 2).

It didn’t take long to see that one Behmor obviously ran hotter than the other.

With the thermocouples in place, it was time to roast coffee. I went with my preferred batch size of 250 grams of coffee, sticking with a dense, high grown washed Costa Rican coffee that I knew could take whatever heat the Behmor threw at it. I roasted both batches in manual mode at the highest heat setting P5 (100%) all the way to the cooling cycle.

Comparing the two graphs, what stood out to me are the overall lower actual temps on my auxiliary thermocouple on the 1600 Plus. Right from the get-go, the 1600 tracked roughly 20F behind the 2000AB Plus, all the way to the end of the roast cycle. It wasn’t that the machine was just cooler at the start either. You can see that the maximum thermocouple reading on the 1600 was 792F, whereas the 2000 clocked 812 (exactly 20F, which is a little weird, but true!).

Roast graph plotting exhaust (A), chamber (B), and auxiliary thermocouple (C) temps on the Behmor 1600 Plus.
Roast graph plotting exhaust (A), chamber (B), and auxiliary thermocouple (C) temps on the Behmor 1600 Plus.
Roast graph plotting exhaust (A), chamber (B), and auxiliary thermocouple (C) temps on the Behmor 2000 AB.
Roast graph plotting exhaust (A), chamber (B), and auxiliary thermocouple (C) temps on the Behmor 2000 AB.

It’s also very interesting that the 1600’s B temperature reading continued to rise after the fan kicked in at 7:30, even as the heating coil reading began to drop. At first I thought that might have to do with a lag in refresh rate, but the temp never went back down, and just sort of plateau’d at 316F until I engaged the cooling cycle.

The difference in temperature between the two roasters wasn’t huge, but enough to cause a delay in 1st Crack by 45 seconds in the 1600, and led to an overall longer roast time. For both roasts, I waited 2 full minutes before cooling. The final weights of the roasted coffees were 213.7 grams in the 1600, and 214.5 in the 2000 – remarkably close.

This confirms what we assumed from the outset and observed in the initial roast comparison. The older Behmor models don’t run hotter, but the temperature readings on the panel simply have a higher value reading. At first I thought thermistor placement might be part of what’s different between the two roasters, but they’re both located in the same place on the inside right of the roast chamber.

Comparing the placement of the roast chamber thermistors on the Behmor 2000 AB (left) and 1600 Plus (right).
Comparing the placement of the roast chamber thermistors on the Behmor 2000 AB (left) and 1600 Plus (right).

My guess is that it’s either a change in thermistor, or has something to do with the way the refresh rate is set up on the newer Behmor control panels – could be both. I’m going to do a little more digging to see if we can find out exactly why to have a better understanding of how the models differ.

Exhaust temperatures also differed quite a bit. It’s hard to wrap my head around this one since the air being pulled out of the roast chamber should be about the same in both roasters. A 20F difference should be expected, but not the 140F variance that we see in the graphs. I’ll run another roast test next week with the soft K type thermocouple we sell at the rear of the roaster to measure the exhaust temperatures of the two different models.

In the end, you can rest assured that the 2000 AB series doesn’t just roast as hot as it’s 1600 predecessors, but actually generates more heat at the highest heat setting (P5). This is a definite plus for someone like me, who shoots for faster, shorter roasts in my Behmor in order to highlight a more dynamic cup profile. Also, lower roast temperature readings from the B thermistor on the 2000 models means no more worry of blowing a roast batch by hitting the over-temp shutdown. What’s not to like?

Comment below to share your experience roasting on roasting in the Behmor. We’d love to hear from you!

Check out our Behmor Coffee Roaster Information Resource Page for more information on your Behmor roasters.

Order a Behmor 2000AB Plus HERE

Read the Behmor 2000AB Plus FAQ HERE

11 Responses

  1. I usually preheat my Behmor 2000AB to about 235 F and then roast on Manual P5. The hottest I’ve seen it get on B is 314 F. When it gets to that point, the heating element automatically starts limiting itself to keep it in that 310-314 range, even though it’s still on P5. I’m not sure it’s possible to overheat the 2000AB.

    1. Hi Mike!

      The roaster did not go into self limiting mode. I believe that happens around 315F on the 2000, which would require pre-heating the machine. My point was just to show that the 2000 actually runs a little hotter than the 1600 Plus series, even though the temp readings on the LED may say otherwise. Placing a thermocouple right next to the heating elements shows this is true.


  2. This is both enlightening, and frustrating. Learning manual mode temperature control is enough of a challenge on its own. Being able to follow example roasts posted by others with more roasting experience would be a big help with that. But if temperature readings are inconsistent from one model to the next, one also has to learn to compensate for those differences. I have a 2000AB Plus. All of the example roasts I’ve found online so far are from the 1600 series. I’ve tried using a couple of them as guides. This explains why my roaster has consistently taken longer to reach the same temperatures.

    1. Hey Kevin, I completely understand where you’re coming from! When trying to replicate roasts, I think time and settings are two of the most important variables to consider since they are the most stable factors involved. Like you said (and I show in this comparison), the temp readings can vary from one roaster to the next. Another route to take would be to probe your roaster to use those readings as a benchmark. I wouldn’t recommend the probing method outlined here, and I’ve been meaning to test some less invasive ways of probing that will attain a consistent read. Once I do, I’ll definitely update this post. But the main point of this article was just to put to rest the idea that the new Behmors were somehow inferior because they don’t run as hot as the old models. That just simply doesn’t seem to be the case.

      At any rate, I hope this helps in some way and doesn’t just add to the confusion! We are planning to do a Behmor discussion on Discord next Friday, June 30 btw. Here’s the link to our server if you happen to be on that platform.


  3. Household voltage is very important with the Behmor. The gauge of your wiring and the length of the run from your electrical panel will have an affect on the voltage when your roaster is running. My brother cannot do a one pound batch in his Behmor. I took the same roaster and used it at my house in an outlet fed by #10awg at a voltage of 122 volts when the roaster was in use. I was able to consistently roast 1 pound batches that would finish in about 16 to 17 minutes. I think this is where the heating discrepancy come from. The lower the voltage, the lower the temperature and the longer the roast.

    1. That’s a very good point Jim. Low voltage has a huge impact on roasting, whether due to wire gauge, Summer overloading, etc. There also appears to be a difference in readings in the 1600’s vs newer 2000 models, which I think has to do with the changes in hardware between the machines (panel, thermistor sensors, etc). My tests in this blog post were meant to show that the discrepancy is in panel readings only by measuring the actual heat coming off of the heating elements using my own probes. Hopefully that made sense!

      Thanks for the comment.


  4. hello
    please quote cif manila, philipppines
    1 set behmor 1600 1st generation
    1 set behmor 2000 new generation
    rolly/manila overseas inc. tel: 6328004272

    1. Hi Rolando,

      Unfortunately, we don’t ship to the Philippines at this time. If you’d like to contact us about our shipping policy, please feel free to reach out at – [email protected].

      Thank you so much,

  5. Appreciate this article for addressing the discrepancies with 1600 roasting info/videos/profiles out on the internet, the temp readings for A and B are definitely inconsistent.

    I got a 2000AB for Xmas this year and have done ~8 roasts so far.

    First two were way over done bc I used the automatic cooling cycle, but have been getting good drinkable FC coffee since I started pulling the drum to cool externally.

    Now just fiddling with energy levels via manual settings (Px) to try and adjust percent of time in the 3 phases of the total roast.

    One of the areas I still have questions is “Does the fan come on at different times for 1/2# vs 1# roast size?”…and “Does that matter for how the beans progress through the profile?”

    Has anyone played with this? My goal currently is to get through drying faster (using higher charge temp), but then extend my browning phase…so looking for ways to slow the momentum coming into the middle phase.

    1. Hey Travis, congrats on the xmas gift!

      It’s been a while since I’ve roasted on anything but the 1 lb. setting, but I believe the fan kicks in at 5 min for 1/4 lb. and 1/2 lb. settings, instead of 7.5 min. IMO, the Behmor needs to be pushed to faster roast times, so delaying the fan is preferred. I basically roast all batches at 1 lb. in manual mode P5. I don’t really reduce power unless nearing 325F, which is where the overtemp error tends to kick in. That hardly ever happens on the AB Plus, unless you really warm it up before roasting.

      Regarding your roast goal, I think dropping to P4 in manual mode should help. Or you can try to the 1/2# setting so the fan kicks in earlier, however, I worry it could be difficult to regain momentum.

      Hope this helps!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.