Roast Profiles in Popper Coffee Roaster

A simple heat profile in Popper can yield some nice results, and a more balanced cup flavor.

After you have been using Popper is a Coffee Roaster a while, you might wonder if there is anything you can do with the settings to get different roast results, to change the heat or air settings to create “roast profiles.”

I have been doing a lot of tests lately to produce a variety of roast profiles and evaluate what the differences are when cupping the coffees side by side. With these tests, I am logging temperatures and energy usage by the Popper to record the path taken to achieve a particular roast level. In other words, you can roast a coffee to a similar roast level (measured by roast color, ending temperature, or weight loss from green to roasted coffee) but the way you got there, the temperature levels and durations, have an impact on the cup flavors. I can roast the same coffee and reach a finishing temperature of 440°F or a weight loss of 13.5% but they can taste quite different.

In short, that’s the importance of a roast profile. All we mean by a roast profile in this case is the time and temperature graph as it is recorded during the roast process, impacted by changes to the roaster settings. (And why is this called a “roast profile”? I have always assumed that the 2 dimensional X-Y axis graph, made by measuring bean temperature over time, forms an outline of the roast, like you might sketch a profile of a person’s face from the side. It is not the person, but it represents them.)

Take note: These tips all pertain to the latest production model of Popper, the “gray” machine. (The main body is gray, unlike the black colorway of the first production runs of Popper). The gray model has a numbered heat dial; the black model has no numbers on the heat setting.



Cut to the Chase: Tips for Popper roast profiles

I want to give you a shortcut on how to approach roast settings on the Popper. You should take time to read the qualifiers and watch the video. But I also want to give a spoiler for those who don’t. (Come back and read to the end if my tips don’t work for you! I’ll probably tell you why…)

Each profile below starts with the same low heat setting of “1” on the heat dial for the first 3 minutes … and then there are options for progressively darker roast levels. ALL these roasts have the fan speed set to HIGH for the entire roast. We will have another article about using fan speed changes at the end of some roasts to raise the roast temperature. But let’s not complicate things with that now…

Start with a low heat level on Popper. Set the heat dial to “1” for the first 3 minutes.

  • Air roasting is faster than other methods by nature, since the heat transfer in a rapid air stream is very efficient. But the initial heat bump in an air roaster is a bit of a shock, and the rapid development and bean expansion of an air roast can create a particular flavor distinct from roast processes with a slower hear transfer from the environment in the roast chamber to the green coffee.
  • Using the “High” fan setting, start your roast on the lowest heat setting, “1.” It allows for a slower drying phase for the green coffee, setting it up for a more controlled finish at the end of the roast.
  • All the recommendations below include starting your roast with 3 minutes at heat setting “1,” and then making adjustments.
  • All the recommendations below assume fan speed is set to HIGH for entire roast.
  • We assume you are weighing your batches and using the exact same amount in each roast, always!

Popper-City-Roast-1-2-Profile

1. For a lighter City roast, adjust the heat setting to “2” at the 3 minute mark.

  • 3 minutes at “1,” 4 minutes at “2”: You might find that changing the heat to “2” is all you need to do… and let the roast play out until it goes into cooling at the 7:00 mark (3:00 on the count-down timer). Yes, it’s not much of a roast curve in terms of being complicated. But what we really want in roasting adjustments is to find the simplest path to the desired cup. Complicating things unnecessarily is just purely affect, and without substance. Let’s keep it real!

Popper-City-Plus-Roast-1-3-2-Profile

2. For a more aggressive approach to reach City+ level, adjust to heat setting “3” at the 3 minute mark, then reduce to “2” at the start of first crack.

  • 3 minutes at “1,” 2 minutes at “3,” 2 minutes at “2”: Depending on your electrical line voltage, and corresponding wattage, this approach might work best for most people. You can use the “3” setting to push the coffee into first crack. Once you confirm first crack is under way, back off to “2” to allow for a controlled, prolonged first crack.

Popper-FullCity-Roast-1-3-2-Profile

3. For Full City roast level, getting a few second crack snaps at the end, simply extend the time of the previous profile.

  • 3 minutes at “1,” 2 minutes at “3,” 3+ minutes at “2”: If you want a darker roast level, you might find than holding the roast longer at the “2” setting at the end gets you where you want to be. Adding 1 minute for a total 8 minutes of roast time works great to get a balanced darker roast profile.

Popper-Extended-Espresso-Roast-1-2-Profile

4. For espresso, extend the roast by 2 minutes or so, using heat level “2” to slowly reach towards City+ or Full City level

  • 3 minutes at “1”, 6 minutes approximately at “2”: It’s said that using an air roaster for espresso is difficult, but this approach to slowly edge the roast upward toward around 445°F has resulted in some outstanding balanced shots for me. You will be extending the roast time a couple minutes beyond the default 7 minute cycle here.

Alternative to Heat Profiling: Keep it simple and don’t change anything!

I find the above heat profiles to produce a very balanced cup profile, and one that tastes more like a slower drum roast method than a fast air roast.

But for filter drip coffee and pour-over methods, faster roasts with more initial heat are really delicious. They tend to produce a more dynamic cup, with more “bass and treble” while having less midtones. Plus, it’s less work too. All these roasts have the fan speed set to HIGH the entire time:

  1. Heat Level “2for 7 minutes: This consistently produces a nice City roast that shows the “origin character of the coffee very well. It should use 810–820 watts, First crack starting at 5:00 to 5:30, with about 1:30 of development time, and an ending temperature of 424°F. The cup character is bright and lively as pour-over, after 2 days of rest!
  2. Heat Level “3” for 7 minutes: This setting gets considerably darker, even a couple snaps of second crack at the end. It’s a Peet’s style roast, Full City+, and a lively, tangy dark pour-over cup. Heat level “3” is drawing around 950 watts to get these results. First Crack starts at 4:40 or so, and at 7:00 I am seeing 459°F bean temperature reading.
  3. Heat Level “4” for 6 minutes: This is a faster roast, and I need to end it at 6:00 because it’s in Second Crack and getting dark already at that time. This is also something you might find at Peet’s or Starbucks, but fresh, so far better! It’s tangy, a little carbony and dark. First crack can start as soon as 3:30, while drawing 1050 Watts of power. Finish at 6:00 and 469°F with second crack starting.

Shortcut Recommendations by Roast Level

City Roast (Light): Simply setting to Heat Level 2 and fan on High produced an excellent light roast in 7 minutes. If that roast is too light or barely reaches first crack in 7:00, you might have slightly lower voltage and need to bump it up to level “3” heat.

City+ Roast (Medium): Fan on High, Heat Level 1 for 3 minutes > Heat level 3 for 2 minutes > Heat Level 2 for 2 minutes. This was the best roast for slightly more development then City roast without getting too dark.

Full City Roast (Medium Dark): For brewed coffee, I honestly thought that using Heat Level 3 for the entire 7 minutes was a great, lively FC or FC+ roast! To get this roast level for espresso, I would see the rec. below and just add a bit more heat at the end.

Espresso: We like lighter roasts for espresso, not too ashy / dark. We had outstanding shots (that didn’t scream out “air roast” too) with this: Fan on High, Heat Level 1 for 3 minutes > Heat Level 2 for 6 minutes. Easy, with a slow RoR and lots of development time after First Crack. If you want it darker, you can add more heat with level 3 for a bit, or actually reduce Fan Speed to Low after first crack is finished.


Voltage and Temperature Variables: Why you might need to diverge from my recommended profiles

Some people have different voltage conditions or roast in a colder climate. If that’s applies to you, consider adding +1 to my heat setting recommendations across the board.

Like all roasters, Popper performs a little differently based on the energy it is fed by your outlet.

Every Popper we are shipping has been calibrated before we send it out. We test each one with 90 grams of a standard washed coffee to be sure we are seeing the same bean movement. But this has made us very aware of a factor that results in different people getting slightly different roast results: your electrical outlet.

We always check the voltage, the voltage drop (what is measured after the roaster is started), and the watts consumed at various settings. Even in our warehouse, we see a variation between the upstairs cupping lab and our downstairs testing room. Upstairs is closer to the electric panel, downstairs is further away. Although we often measure 122–123 volts before starting the roaster at both locations, upstairs dips to to 119-120 under load, whereas downstairs can go as low as 116 volts.

We think the variation we see within our own facility represents the range that might be experienced in the homes of Popper users. The resulting wattage is quite different for the various roast settings.

What that means is people with electrical supply more like our downstairs outlet should likely increase the recommended settings by +1. So you want to do the initial 3 minutes of roast at setting “2,” not “1”.

Wattage level differences measured at our warehouse

Ambient temperature (including even humidity and altitude) can impact roasting. If your roaster is taking in cooler air, such as an early morning roast versus one in the afternoon, you will likely need to boost your heat settings. We find that the electric supply to the roaster is the number one variable people encounter.


How do these roast curves compare?

Here is a comparative graph of the “straight roasts” where no heat level changes are applied.

Between the one where heat level “2” (light City roast) and heat level “3” (Full City+ roast), there is a dramatic difference in the roast level and style.

Roasts graphs with no changes to heat level
Roasts graphs with no changes to heat level

Below is a comparison graph of the 3 roasts with heat profiles applied. It is remarkable how they can end at the same final temperature but taste different in the cup.

The roast marked in red cupped lighter and brighter than the roast in purple, but ended at nearly the same finish temperature at the same time. For the roast in brown, which had a delicious darker roast level, simply +1 minute continuation of the roast in purple was the way to achieve this.

Popper Roasts with Heat Profiles Applied
Popper Roasts with Heat Profiles Applied

For espresso, we had really nice shots from this very simple, gentle roast curve with minimal intervention.

After our slow 3 minute warm up at heat level “1,” we use heat level “2” to gently edge the roast along with a slow ROR (Rate of Rise) to achieve an air-roasted espresso that really tastes more like a slow drum-roasted espresso.

Extended Espresso Roasts with Heat Profiles Applied
Extended Espresso Roasts with Heat Profiles Applied

P.S. I really want to provide guidance for getting better good results on the Popper roaster, but this project had a bit too much “nerd creep” and ended up feeling a bit disorganized. If I wasn’t clear enough about anything here, please let me know in the comments.

15 Responses

  1. Yes, this is very helpful. I find that environmental conditions are also a big factor too since I roast outside. It was HOT today and things kicked much quicker than in the winter months when I take 5 minutes at “12 o’clock” to get everyone nice and toasty before cranking it up and adding more time.
    “”

  2. It would be fun to see something like this for the fresh roast.

    Almost not nerdy enough. I need a watt meter.

    1. Haha – not nerdy enough! Yes would like to do the same procedure on Freshroast and try to narrow down some adjustments for various roast levels, espresso, and adjustments that might be beneficial during the roast.

  3. Another variable is elevation (air density)–I believe you covered that in an article some time ago. I use a Freshroast both at sea level and 4200 ft. Very different settings to get a similar roast profile!

    1. Very true. I don’t have the opportunity to test that much but people say it has to do with air pressure in the drum. That heat transfer is influenced by air pressure. I need to read up on that because I don’t understand it fully.

  4. I love the variables you mention on line voltage and ambient variables. I typically use the 940 range as my 1 setting, 1050ish* as 2, 1140 as 3.

    Im sure that seems crazy by comparison at first, but I did City + roast of a Guatemala recently and I most of the time was on 940 (aka 1) and about 45 seconds on 1140 (aka 3): First crack at 6:33 total roast time at 8:12 with 12.90 percent loss.

    *Ive found my popper doesn’t typically stay in the 1000 range often most times it goes either in the 900s or the 1100s If I can keep it in 1000s I typically can do a great roast with fan on high with little adjustments needed focusing only on time.

  5. Great stuff! I second the request for Freshroast settings. I just got a watt meter to see how they correlate, and I’m seeing 1270W at heat 1, up to 1615W at heat 9 on my SR800. So WAY more energy, but also I expect much more airflow compared to the Popper? I also have the extension tube, so there are a lot factors that are different.

    I’m interested to try the lower heat initially. I’ve actually been doing the opposite lately, trying max heat for the first 40 sec or so, then backing down to a moderate level for the duration. Seemed to work surprisingly well. But I want to get back to doing espresso shots, so I’ll try the slower journey as you recommended.

    1. Yes we are already talking about getting together a similar “profile mapping” project going for the FreshRoast. I think we will need to address with / without extension tube variants too, in order to make it useful to people, depending on their set up

  6. You timed this writeup perfectly as I’m starting to get more curious about beginning roast profiles in my black Popper I received for Christmas. Thank you for the Popper, the beans, and the commitment to your customers and fans!

  7. Great article, has me motivated to break out the Popper! I have the original but upgraded the fan motor as mine went out. I use a watt meter so can adjust to different levels using that. If memory serves, not sure I can get as fine of change in watt output as your charts indicates. Like your approach to profiling with the Popper however. Mine was way more convoluted and hard to replicate. Appreciate y’all’s efforts!!!

    1. Yes you should be able to use the Watt values to translate these curves to Popper V1. I think using about 11:00 for 3 minutes should be = to heat level 1 on the newer version. But one thing I want to_, and I wasn’t fully aware of with the motor replacement procedure. When you replace the fan and you push it back onto the shaft, if you push it all the way down, you’re getting much higher airflow, and therefore being movement Than the original set up. That’s a great thing because you can roast more coffee. But you really need to find the right batch size that keeps the coffee moving, but doesn’t allow so much air to pass by the coffee and out of the roaster, which slows down the roast. I have a new video all about air movement That we posted yesterday.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

 

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Reddit
Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Email