Mar – Apr 2001: Home Roasting and Freshness

Home Roasting and Freshness
This month’s newsletter topic was inspired by a very mediocre cup of coffee. It was an Auction Lot KenyaKenya is the East African powerhouse of the coffee world. Both in the cup, and the way they run their trade, everything is topnotch.: Kenya is the East..., and it was originally a very good coffee (the name isn’t important but it is one we sold in mid-2000). Yet this cup was dull, totally lacking the distinct fruityIn some coffee taster’s lexicon, “fruity” means the coffee is tainted with fruit, and “fruited” means a coffee is graced by positive fruit notes. We don't exactly see... and flowery aromatics of a good Kenya. What was wrong?

Freshness! I looked back at my sample roast notes and saw that this coffee was about 9 days old, and if I remember correctly I left it sitting out in a sample tray on the cuppingCupping is a method of tasting coffee by steeping grounds in separate cups for discrete amounts of ground coffee, to reveal good flavors and defects to their fullest.... table for 4 days (for no good reason I can think of).

Home roasters can be sticklers for the details and that includes freshness. After all, freshness is the main benefit to wrestling the “means of production” out of the paws of that questionable coffee source you previously bought from, and adopting the DIY —do it yourself- strategy.

The conventionalConventional coffee means that a coffee is not organic certified, in the coffee trader parlance. wisdom for home roasters is to store coffee in small, airtight glass jars after roasting. Jelly-sized canning jars will do, and the favorite is the 8 ounce Ball Wide-mouth type because it’s so much easier to get the coffee into it, and easier to clean.

And the basic home roaster’s dilemma isn’t figuring ways to keep a pound of coffee fresh for as long as possible. The home roaster is usually fighting off the temptation to allow coffee some time to rest and de-gas after roasting before consuming the preciously small batch.

For this reason, the home roaster doesn’t really need to consider seriously the many ways that coffee flavorThe overall impression in the mouth, including the origin character as well as tastes that come from the roast.: This is the overall impression in the mouth, including... degrades over time. But it seems useful to illustrate some of the basics of freshness, if for no other reason than to show the fragile nature of coffee flavor, and gain a greater respect for its complexity.

Chemical Basis of Freshness: The enemies of coffee flavor are open air (oxidation and dissipation of aromas), heat (coffee stored in warm environment), and moisture (high humidity especially). My dull and lifeless cup of Kenya is the perfect starting point, because East African coffees have an abundance of AldehydesAn important factor in coffee aromatics, partially formed in roasting by the interaction of fatty acids and oxygen: Along with Ketones, Aldehydes are an important factor in coffee... that account for their strongly attractive aromatics and fruit flavors. Aldehydes combine with acidsMany acids contribute to coffee flavor: acetic, malic, citric, quinic, tartaric, phosphoric, etc.: Many acids contribute to coffee flavor; malic, citric, quinic, tartaric, phosphoric, etc. See Acidity or... during roasting to form aromatic EstersAn ester is an often fragrant organic or partially organic compound formed by the reaction between an acid (including amino acids) and an alcohol. They play a smaller.... Esters and aldehydes are the most volatile aromatic compounds, broken down by heat and moisture or oxidation/dissipation. Certain aromatics are diminished by 50% after ground coffee is left 15 minutes in open air!

The basic set of compounds responsible for perceived coffee freshness are a particular set of Sulpherous Mercapatans, and in particular Methyl Mercapatan. This chemical is lost rapidly through dissipation and oxidation, especially when ground coffee is left in open air in a humid environment. Lab results show noticeable loss in 24 hours, and up to 70% loss within 3 days.

Many compounds in coffee are perceived as positive in moderation, then as negative in higher concentrations. Furfuryl Mercapatan is one. At the very slight concentration of .01 to .5 parts per billion it communicates freshness to the senses, and any higher it is perceived as staleness! Such is the topsy-turvey world of coffee chemistry.

PhenolsA compound in coffee that at high levels contributes to negative flavors, but can have positive aspects as well: Phenols are a set of organic compounds, relatively stable,... are sensed as spicy notes in darker roasted coffees, and especially noticeable in dark roasted Ethiopians or East Africans. Also in specific roast tastes you find Pyradines (smoky, ashyThe smell or taste of ash, such as an ashtray, cigarette smoke, or fireplace. Often a roast defect.: A quality in aroma or flavor similar to that of...), Pyrazines (earthyEarthy is a flavor term with some ambivalence, used positively in some cases, negatively in others.: Sumatra coffees can have a positive earthy flavor, sometimes described as "wet..., mustyOff aroma and flavor that reminds one of a dank, moldy closet. This flavor can hint at a dangerous coffee mold and should not be consumed.: Off aroma...) and PyrrolesThere are 70 identified Pyrroles in coffee, important aromatic compounds.: There are 70 identified Pyrroles in coffee, important aromatic compounds, thermally formed by a reaction of aldoses with... (smoky, roasty). Phenols evaporate easily. Pyrroles are more stable but are a negative taste sensation in greater concentrations. Pyrazines are highly volatile and dissipate easily. Pyrroles occur in the coffee oils and are subject to oxidation. The above compounds can be dramatically reduced or converted to negative flavors within 8-10 days of roasting, and much sooner under the influence of oxygen, heat and moisture.

In general, staling occurs as fats and oils are oxidized. As coffee takes on oxygen, Lipids are converted. The main undesirable compounds produced are Peroxides, and the more peroxides present the more will be produced…a sort of exponential regression into staleness. Also, fats are subect to aromatic taints, so keep coffee (both green and roasted) away from your onions.

De-gassing coffee is not immune to the effects of oxygen. It simply has less oxygen surrounding the coffee due to the presence of CO-2 gasses eminating from the fresh coffee. But it takes very little oxygen to stale coffee over time, so the key is to minimize exposure to oxygen, and minimize the time until the coffee is consumed.

Degradation of coffee flavor is inevitable, and pre-roasted coffee, whether it is packaged in a valve-bag or not, has inevitably lost flavor. So it makes sense that the simplest way to combat all the forces that ruin coffee quality over time is to reduce the time between roasting and consumption.

In addition, home roasters should store coffee in a re-sealable valve bag (because you can squeeze out air from the bag as you seal it) or a small airtight jar that approximately fits the size of the roast —not a large 1 Quart mason jar!

Keep coffee away from heat. This includes transferring the coffee out of the roast chamber when the roasters stops, then transfer it into a container when it is room temperature.

And keep coffee way from moisture. In humid environments, this may be difficult. But just remember that your small homeroast batch only has a short time from roaster to cup. Just think of the humilation a 2 lb bag of Starbucks suffers during a Southern summer, from purchase at a Costco or Sam’s Club (already old) to final consumption.

Home roasters are storing most of their coffee in green form. Green coffeeGreen coffee refers to the processed seed of the coffee tree fruit. Coffee is a flowering shrub that produces fruit. The seeds of the fruit are processed, roasted,... is chemically stable and physically immune to the host of degrading forces. Green coffee is, by its nature, made to be stored, awaiting the moment in the roaster when its chemical compounds are converted by heat into the fresh coffee flavors we so value!

For more information on the chemistry of coffee: EspressoA small coffee beverage, about 20 ml, prepared on an espresso machine where pressurized hot water extracted through compressed coffee.: In its most stripped-down, basic form, this is... Coffee: the Chemistry of Quality by A. Illy, Etc.

Coffee Technology and Coffee Quality: Michael Sivetz

Much of the chemical references in this article from

A Question of Freshness: Paul Songer, SCAA Chronicle

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Sweet Marias Green Coffee Offerings on 2/25/01:
This list is always superceded by the current list on our web page! http://sweetmarias.com/prod.greencoffee.shtml

Central American 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Costa Rican OrganicGrown without the use of artificial fertilizers, herbicides, etc.: Organic coffee has been grown according to organic farming techniques, typically without the use of artificial fertilizers. Some farms... La Amistad $5.30 $10.07 $23.06 $81.62

Costa Rican SHB Orosi ’01 $4.70 $8.93 $20.45 $72.38

GuatemalaGuatemalan coffee is considered a top quality coffee producer in Central America. Due to our proximity to Guatemala, some of the nicest coffees from this origin come to... Antigua Los Volcanes $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Guatemala HHT El Injerto Est BourbonA coffee cultivar; a cross between Typica and Bourbon, originally grown in Brazil: Mundo Novo is a commercial coffee cultivar; a natural hybrid between "Sumatra" and Red Bourbon,... $4.90 $9.31 $21.32 $75.46

Guatemalan SHB FincaSpanish 101: Finca is the Spanish word for farm. Sometimes the term Hacienda is used to imply an Estate, which would mean the farm has its own wet-mill.... La Illusion $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Guat.Fraijanes Org.-La Montana EstateA "coffee estate" is used to imply a farm that has its own processing facility, a wet-mill. In Spanish this is called an Hacienda. A Finca (farm) does... $5.20 $9.88 $22.62 $80.08

Guatemalan Finca San Rafael ’01 $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

Mexican Oaxaca Pluma -Fino Rojas $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

Mexican San Pablo Tres Flechas $4.70 $8.93 $20.45 $72.38

Nicaraguan SHG -Selva Negra Estate $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

South American 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

BrazilBrazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "they grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil".: Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra... Cerrado-Monte Carmelo $4.40 $8.36 $19.14 $67.76

Brazil Monte Alegre- Wet ProcessWet-processing starts by removing the outer skin of the coffee cherry with a machine called a pulper, then fermenting the remaining fruit (with green bean inside) in water... $4.70 $8.93 $20.45 $72.38

Brazil Natural Oberon 17/18 $4.50 $8.55 $19.58 $69.30

Colombian Bucaramanga SupremoA Colombian coffee grade referring to screen size of 17-18 screen. In the traditional bulk Arabica business, Supremo was the top grade Colombia, with Excelso one step below... $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Colombian Popayan Supremo $4.50 $8.55 $19.58 $69.30

Colombian MaragogypeMaragogype is a mutation of Typica coffee and was discovered in Brazil. The Maragogype is a large plant with big leaves, low production and very large fruits (and... – Alto Gigante $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Colombian Medellin ExcelsoA Colombian coffee grade referring to screen size of 15-16. In the traditional bulk Arabica business, Excelso is a step below the large bean Supremo grade, which indicates... Bolivar $4.50 $8.55 $19.58 $69.30

Colombian Tuluni Supremo 18+ $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

PeruPeruvian coffees have Central American brightness but in a South American coffee flavor package overall. The good organic lots do have more of a "rustic" coffee character.: Organic... Org/FT Chanchamayo La Florida $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Peru Chanchamayo Corona 18+ $4.40 $8.36 $19.14 $67.76

African- Arabian 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Ethiopian Harar Longberry Grade 4 $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Ethiopian Sidamo Gr.5 -00 $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Gr.2 $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Kenya AA Kiungu Estate 99-00 $5.60 $10.64 $24.36 $86.24

Kenya PeaberryA peaberry is a green coffee "bean" that has a rounded form: Coffee is the dried seed from the fruit of a flowering tree - each fruit having... ’00 $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Tanzanian Northern PeaberryThe Spanish-language term for Peaberry is the same for "snail". See Peaberry for more information on the single bean fruit of the coffee tree. A peaberry is the... 00-01 $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

UgandaWhile Arabica was introduced at the beginning of the 1900's, Robusta coffee is indigenous to the country, and has been a part of Ugandan life for centuries. The... Bugisu AA $4.50 $8.55 $19.58 $69.30

YemenYemen has a coffee culture like no other place, and perhaps some of what we enjoy in this cup is due to their old style of trade...: Technically,... MokhaThe Yemeni type of coffee, both in terms of the family of cultivars planted there, and the general trade name.: Mokha Yemeni type of coffee, both in terms... Mattari $7.00 $13.30 $30.45 $112.00

Yemen Mokha Raimi $6.90 $13.11 $30.02 $110.40

ZimbabweZimbabwe, formerly known as lower Rhodesia until independence in 1980, has produced great coffee since production was introduced in the 1960s. Like Zambian coffees, these coffees are often... AA+ -Lynwood Estate $5.30 $10.07 $23.06 $81.62

Indonesian- Indian 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Indian Monsooned Malabar AA $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Indian Pearl Mountain Est. Peaberry $5.20 $9.88 $22.62 $80.08

Aged JavaThere are several types of Abyssinia variety coffee, but they are not from Ethiopia but rather Indonesia. Abyssinia 3 = AB3.  PJS Cramer, a Dutch plant researcher, introduced this variety... – Old Brown ’97 $6.20 $11.78 $26.97 $95.48

Java Govt. Estate Blawan $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

Myanmar ArabicaArabica refers to Coffea Arabica, the taxonomic species name of the genus responsible for around 75% of the worlds commercial coffee crop.: Arabica refers to Coffea Arabica, the... -Rubyland $3.50 $6.65 $15.23 $53.90

Papua New GuineaPapua New Guinea (PNG) occupies the eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian province of Irian Jaya, part of Indonesia. The two primary areas for... Organic AA $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

SulawesiSulawesi coffees are low-acid with great body and that deep, brooding cup profile akin to Sumatra. The coffee is sometimes known as Celebes, which was the Dutch colonial... Rantepao -Monsooned $6.00 $11.40 $26.10 $92.40

Sulawesi Toraja Gr.1 00 $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

SumatraIndonesians are available as a unique wet-hulled or dry-hulled (washed) coffees. Giling Basah is the name for the wet-hulling process in Bahasa language, and will have more body... MandhelingA trade name used for wet-hulled Sumatra coffees. It is an area and a culture group as well (spelled Mandailing often) but there is not as much coffee... DP Gr.1 ’01 $4.75 $9.03 $20.66 $73.15

Sumatra Organic Gayoland ’01 $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Sumatra Organic GayoGayo is ethnic group from the area of Aceh Sumatra around Lake Takengon. They use the name Gayo Coffee to market their production. The Acehnese are a different... Mountain ’01 $5.10 $9.69 $22.19 $78.54

Aged Sumatra Pwani Mandheling $6.00 $11.40 $26.10 $92.40

TimorTimor-Leste (East Timor) is a tiny island between Australia and Sulawesi, annexed by Indonesia and liberated in a referendum several years ago. Small scale coffee farming was jump-started... Organic Maubese 00-01 $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

Islands- Blends -Etc. 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Dominican Rep.-Montana Verde Estate $4.80 $9.12 $20.88 $73.92

HawaiiThe Kona district on the big island of Hawaii produces the best coffee from this state - clean, sweet and mild. : Ah, Hawaii... what a nice place.... KonaKona coffee comes from farms along the Kona Coast on the Big Island of Hawaii: Kona coffee comes from farms along the Kona Coast on the Big Island... XF-Purple Mountain Farm $15.90 $30.53 $73.94 $279.84

Hawaii Kona-Purple Mountain Peaberry $17.40 $33.41 $- $-

Puerto Rican Yauco Selecto AA $10.90 $20.71 $50.69 $-

SM’s Moka Kadir Blend $5.80 $11.02 $25.23 $89.32

SM’s Espresso Monkey Blend $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

SM’s Decaf Espresso Blend $5.70 $10.83 $24.80 $87.78

Sweet Maria’s Fr.RoastBlend $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Indian Malabar Espresso Blend $6.00 $11.40 $26.10 $92.40

Decafs 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Brazil Santos SWPSWP means Swiss Water Process is a patented water filtration decaf method, not a chemical solvent method. The plant is in Vancouver, Canada. Decaf $5.40 $10.26 $23.49 $83.16

Colombian Natural Decaf $5.20 $9.88 $22.62 $80.08

Colombian CO-2 Decaf $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Costa Rican SHB Natural Decaf $5.10 $9.69 $22.19 $78.54

Ethiopian Yirgacheffe MC Decaf $5.50 $10.45 $23.93 $84.70

Guatemalan SHB Natural Decaf $5.10 $9.69 $22.19 $78.54

Indonesian Komodo Blend Org SWP D $6.10 $11.59 $26.54 $93.94

Mexican Esmeralda Natural Decaf $4.70 $8.93 $20.45 $72.38

Sumatra Mandheling Natural Decaf $5.40 $10.26 $23.49 $83.16

Sumatra Org.GayoMtn SWP Decaf $6.30 $11.97 $27.41 $97.02

Premium Robustas 1 lb 2 lb 5 lb 20 lb

Indian Kaapi Royale RobustaAteng is a common name for Catimor coffees widely planted in Sumatra and other Indonesia isles.: Ateng, with several subtypes, is a common name for Catimor coffees widely... $5.00 $9.50 $21.75 $77.00

Indian Monsooned RobustaRobusta usually refers to Coffea Robusta, responsible for roughly 25% of the world's commercial coffee. Taxonomy of Robusta is debated: some sources use “Robusta” to refer to any... AA $5.20 $9.88 $22.62 $80.08

Mexican Washed Robusta $3.02 $5.74 $13.14 $46.51

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Central America: Costa RicaCosta Rican coffee is typically very clean, sweet, with lots of floral accents. hey are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity,... | Guatemala | HondurasHonduran coffee was absent from the top ranks of the Specialty market, but that has changed. It has all the environmental factors on its side: soil, altitude, climate.... | MexicoMexican coffee originates from South-central to Southern regions of the country. For that reason, coffees from Coatepec and Veracruz are much different from Oaxacan Plumas, which are in... | NicaraguaNicaraguan coffees from the Segovia, Jinotega, Ocotal and Matagalpa regions are nice balanced cups. They often possess interesting cup character along with body and balance, outperforming many other... | PanamaPanama coffee ranges from medium quality lower altitude farms to those at 1600 - 1800 meters centered in the area of Boquete in the Chirqui district near the... | El SalvadorEl Salvador coffee had an undeservingly poor reputation for years, marred mostly by the inability to deliver coffee of high quality in an unstable political climate. Unfortunately, agriculture...
South America: BoliviaBolivia has always been a coffee origin with great potential, the potential to have a unique Specialty coffee offering with unique cup character.: There's no better way to... | Brazil | ColombiaColombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true.... | EcuadorEcuador has everything it takes to grow great coffee. Positioned between Colombia and Peru, the interior mountain ranges have plenty of altitude, weather patterns, and ideal soil for... | Peru
Africa/Arabia: BurundiBurundi coffee bears resemblance to neighboring Rwanda, in both cup character, but also the culture surrounding coffee. Burundi is a small landlocked country at the crossroads of East... | CongoKivu is the general name for East Congo (Kinshasa), covering a very broad geographical area, and the lake of the same name that divides them. It borders on... | EthiopiaEthiopia, formerly known as Abyssinia, or a coffee cultivar: Ethiopia, or more specifically the Empire under Haile Selassie,  was known as Abyssinia. The name is Latin, derived from... | Kenya | RwandaA Bourbon cultivar variant from Rwanda and Burundi. Bourbon coffees are named for the island in the India Ocean where French colonists grew it. Some history from the... | TanzaniaIn terms of the Tanzania coffee character, it belongs to the Central/East African family of washed (wet-processed) coffees, bright (acidy), and mostly aggressively flavorful of which Kenya is... | Uganda | ZambiaFrom the country formerly known as upper Rhodesia in a country now named for the Zambezi River, Zambian coffees range from Kenya-like brightness to subtle, balanced coffee with... | Zimbabwe | Yemen
IndonesiaUSDA is (obviously) the United States Department of Agriculture. USDA also had coffee plant breeding programs in the past and one variety they distributed to Indonesia and was.../Asia: BaliCoffee from the Indonesian island of Bali was formerly sold mainly to the Japanese market. Perhaps it is the changing face of world economics that finds the first... | IndiaS-795 is a variety based on the " S-Line" coffees of  India, and stands for Selection 795,  It has a very fine cup, one of the best in... | Java | Papua New Guinea | Sumatra | Sulawesi | Timor
Islands/Blends/Others: Hawaii | Puerto RicoPuerto Rican coffee has the typical"island profile". These coffees, which include Jamaica and Kona, have a soft cup, not acidic, balanced, and mild. : I have tried other... | JamaicaJamaica coffee can be excellent mild, lush coffee... sometimes. Like Kona and Puerto Rican coffee, it is soft, mild, clean and well balanced when it is good.: Ah... | Dominican | ChicoryChicory was a popular coffee substitute and economizer for 2 centuries, back when coffee was more prized, and pure coffee was a luxury. : Chicory was a popular... | Saint Helena | Sweet Maria’s Blends
Decafs: Water Process, Natural Decafs, MC Decafs, C0-2 Decafs
Robustas: India | Uganda Archives: 2008-2009 | 2007 | 2005-2006 | 2003-2004 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Review Archive

This page is authored by Tom Owen and Sweet Maria’s Coffee, Inc. and is not to be copied or reproduced without permission.

Green Coffee Beans 70+ Selections Hearthware I-Roast 2 Fresh Roast Home Coffee Roasters – Two Models Gene Caffe Drum RoasterA roaster with a rotating drum that provides agitation to the beans, while a heating element (typically either electric or gas) provides heat. The metal drum conducts heat...
BehmorA popular electric drum roaster designed for home use, with variable batch sizes (from 1/4 pound to 1 pound) and a smoke-reduction system. It has been modified and... 1600 HotTopA home drum roaster with a 9oz capacity, adjustable heat and airflow profiling, and an external cooling tray.: A home drum roaster with a 9oz capacity, adjustable heat... Drum Roaster Stovetop Popper Roasting Espresso Equipment & Accessories
Nesco Home Coffee RoasterA machine for roasting coffee. Or the person operating it! The basic requirements for a coffee roaster are a heating element that gets suitably hot and a mechanism... TechnivormThe Technivorm is a Dutch-made electric drip brewer for the home that is known for it's good design, and good results. You can find them for sale on... Electric Brewers Chemex Coffee Brewers Coffee Bags: for green and roasted
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