Welcome the the wayback window of Sweet Maria’s green coffee bean reviews! From 2001-2 ?
This is how we used to publish our review archives, and just for the heck of it, we like to keep our old stuff online … you know, the dustbin of history and all that. Likely none of the links work or the images show up. But old web sites are like other old things: stuff breaks. So here it is, our Coffee Review Archive:
| MexicoMexican coffee originates from South-central to Southern regions of the country. For that reason, coffees from Coatepec and Veracruz are much different from Oaxacan Plumas, which are in... |
| Mexican Oaxaca Pluma -Fino Rojas | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Oaxaca | Mark: | Fino Rojas |
| ProcessingThe removal of the cherry and parchment from the coffee seed.: Coffee is either wet-processed (also called washed or wet-milled) or dry-processed (also called wild, natural or natural...: | Wet ProcessWet-processing starts by removing the outer skin of the coffee cherry with a machine called a pulper, then fermenting the remaining fruit (with green bean inside) in water... | Crop: | 2002 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica, CaturraCatimor is a broad group of cultivars derived from a Hibrido de Timor (HdT) and Caturra cross, highly productive, sometimes with inferior cup flavor. The main issue is... |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3 | Notes: Fino Rojas is a unique Mexican coffee both for its quality and originIn coffee talk, it refers to a coffee-producing region or country; such as, "I was just at origin." Of course "Origin" for most product we use is not.... It is sold under the Fino Rojas name because it is the highest quality coffee offered by an elderly Mexican grower and mill owner who, in defiance of modern coffee practices, only sells his coffee from available lots. In other words, he never makes contracts on coffee yet-to-be-produced or deals in futures …Much like a consumer who shuns credit for cash. His well-established name allows this. While he sells coffee processed at his mill grown on surrounding farms, the Fino Rojas mark on the bag is coffee grown on his EstateA "coffee estate" is used to imply a farm that has its own processing facility, a wet-mill. In Spanish this is called an Hacienda. A Finca (farm) does... and processed in his mill. We haven’t bought this coffee since the 1999 crop year; there have been general quality problems with the Oaxaca Plumas the last 2 years and even the top-rated Fino Rojas was down a notch. And even the early samples from this season were so-so. But this late crop sample was really impressive, with brightnessA euphemistic term we use often to describe acidity in coffee. A bright coffee has more high, acidic notes. : A euphemistic term to describe acidity in coffee...., balanceSuggests a harmony and proportion of qualities, and implies mildness since no one quality dominates.: Balance is both an obvious and slippery taste term. It implies a harmony... and a little bite too. I especially like this coffee roasted a bit slower, as in the Alpenrost or the Caffe Rosto. It makes a great straight espressoA small coffee beverage, about 20 ml, prepared on an espresso machine where pressurized hot water extracted through compressed coffee.: In its most stripped-down, basic form, this is... when roasted to a light Vienna and rested 48 hours after the roast. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3 | ||||||
| Brightness – AcidityAcidity is a positive flavor attribute in coffee, also referred to as brightness or liveliness. It adds a brilliance to the cup, whereas low acid coffees can seem... (1-10) | 8 | ||||||
| Flavor – Depth (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| BodyAssociated with and sensed by mouthfeel, body is sense of weight and thickness of the brew, caused by the percentage of soluble solids in the cup, including all... – Movement (1-5) | 2.5 | ||||||
| FinishSimilar to aftertaste, but it refers to the impression as the coffee leaves the palate. Aftertaste is the sensations gathered after the coffee has left the mouth. We... – AftertasteAftertaste refers to lingering residual sensations in the mouth after coffee has swallowed. It might be distinguished from "finish" which is the final sensations of the coffee while... (1-10) | 8 | ||||||
| Cupper’s Correction (1-5) | 1 | Roast: Full City to Vienna: the pungentRefers to an aggressive, intense aroma or flavor, often related to spices (pepper) or roast tastes. Pungent foods are often called "spicy", meaning a sharp or biting character,... roast flavors are really nice and the brightness in the cup seems to hang on through the Full City+City+ roast is an ideal roast level that occurs roughly between 425 and 435 degrees Fahrenheit in many coffee roasters with a responsive bean probe where First Crack... stage. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: Balanced mild coffee, with a bit of pleasant bite. Frankly, its not that unlike some Hawaiian coffees. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 84 | ||||||
| Mexican Chiapas Strictly Altura | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | SHG | Region: | Chiapas | Mark: | Co-op de Profesor Montana |
| Processing: | Wet processed | Crop: | 02 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica, CaturraCaturra is an Arabica cultivar discovered as a natural mutant of Bourbon in Brazil in the first decade of the 20th century, but wasn't studied until 1937. It... |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.0 | Notes: Chiapas is the southern state in Mexico, at the Guatemalan border. The coffees are distinct from the Oaxaca Plumas and Coatepec coffees: they are a little brighter, sweeter, and bear resemblence to the Huehuetenango coffees of GuatemalaGuatemalan coffee is considered a top quality coffee producer in Central America. Due to our proximity to Guatemala, some of the nicest coffees from this origin come to.... Many of the coffees from Chiapas are cooperatively wet-milled and sold. The names of co-ops are quite elaborate: this coffee is “Union de Ejidos Profesor Otilio Montana” and has the environmental mission printed on each bag: “Por la Conservacion de Tierra, La Naturaleza, Y la Cultura.” In my memory, this coffee is unique and cups a little more like the coffees of Segovia, NicaraguaNicaraguan coffees from the Segovia, Jinotega, Ocotal and Matagalpa regions are nice balanced cups. They often possess interesting cup character along with body and balance, outperforming many other.... It has a sage-like herbiness in the cup making it have herbalA flavor descriptor in coffee reminiscent of herbs, usually meaning aromatic, savory, leafy dried herbs. Usually, more specific descriptions are given, whether is is a floral herb, or... tea qualities. It develops a nice pungency as the roast turns darker, but you lose the delicate bright snap that is in this cup, hinting at the high altitude at which it is grown (Strictly Altura, top grade high grownHigh Grown, or HG, is a coffee designation that can mean different things in different countries. : High Grown, or HG, is the highest quality Mexican coffee designation...). | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Brightness – Acidity (1-10) | 7.5 | ||||||
| Flavor – Depth (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Body – Movement (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) | 7.0 | ||||||
| Cupper’s Correction (1-5) | 2.0 | Roast: City roastCity roast is what we define as the earliest palatable stage that the roast process can be stopped and result in good quality coffee. City roast occurs roughly...: You can take it darker to Full City (at second crackAfter First Crack, a roast reaction around 440 to 450 degrees that is distinguished by a snapping sound. Second Crack is the second audible clue the roaster-operator receives...) or Vienna (30 seconds into 2nd crackAn audible popping sound heard during roasting. In coffee, one refers to "first crack" and "second crack," which come from two different classes of chemical reactions.: An audible... or so), but the brighter notes and delicate flavors disappear. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: Interesting and unique sageA flavor hint of sage found in coffee, either leafy sage, dried sage, or sage flower. This could indicate a more rustic cup quality, or even defect flavor... flavors at City roast, mild sweetnessSweetness is an important positive quality in fine coffees, and is one of five basic tastes: Sour, Sweet, Salty, Bitter, Savory (Umami). In coffee, sweetness is a highly..., more like Nicaraguan Segovia | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 83.5 | ||||||
| Mexican SHG OrganicGrown without the use of artificial fertilizers, herbicides, etc.: Organic coffee has been grown according to organic farming techniques, typically without the use of artificial fertilizers. Some farms.../FT Loxicha | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | SHG | Region: | Loxicha, Oaxaca | Mark: | San Augustin, CEPCO Co-op |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 2001 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Typica |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.0 | Notes: It is more difficult to find really good Oaxacan Pluma this year. We were lucky with the El Olivo, but our traditional source (San Pablo Tres Flechas) did not come in at the expected quality. So it was a relief to get the pre-shipment samples of our other best source from the Oaxacan micro-regionWe use this term to denote a coffee-producing sub-region within a larger coffee area - Micro-Region is more specific coffee-producing zone. For example, if the Country for a... of Loxicha in San Augustin. This is a co-operatively grown coffee from the Cepco organization, and is Organic and Fair TradeFair trade is an organized social movement and market-based approach to empowering developing country producers and promoting sustainability.: Fair trade is an organized social movement and market-based approach... Certified. It is rated as SHG: Strictly High GrownA classification used in some countries in Central America, indicating the coffee was grown at an altitude above 1200 feet/4000 meters. Beans grown at a higher altitude, have... (top grade for altitude). It is a medium-bodied coffee with great milk chocolateA general flavor or aroma term reminiscent of chocolate. But what type? Usually described with more specifics.: Chocolate is a broad, general flavor or aroma term reminiscent of... and almond flavors. The more roast you expose it to, the more the chocolate flavors turn bittersweetBittersweet is from the language of chocolate, and describes the co-presence of positive bittering compounds balanced by sweetness. It is directly related to caramelization, but has inputs from... and pungent. A moderate acidity balances out the cup and the finish is attractively aggressive(Full City RoastA coffee that has been roasted to the brink of second crack.: A coffee that has been roasted to the brink of second crack. The internal bean temperature...) and chocolate with a little tangyAn adjective modifying a flavor descriptor, describing a sharp effect; tangy citrus, tangy bittersweet flavor, tangy green apple. carbonyA roast-related flavor term, referring to burnt flavors from dark roast levels. For some this is a pleasant flavor if residual sweetness is present, but plain carbon flavor... flavor. It also happens to be great as espresso too …surprising since this is a wet-processed coffee! As a traditional organic growth, the coffee has a bit less uniformity green with an occasional odd seed, but this will not affect roast quality. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 4.0 | ||||||
| Brightness – Acidity (1-10) | 7.0 | ||||||
| Flavor – Depth (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Body – Movement (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Cupper’s Correction (1-5) | 1.0 | Roast: This coffee has a wide latitude of roasts …its great at City, Full City or Vienna. But the chocolate flavors really develop at Full City, where the coffee has maximum depth and complexity. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: The best Oaxaca Plumas and Nicaragua from the Matagalpa region. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 84.0 | ||||||
| Mexican Oaxaca Pluma – FincaSpanish 101: Finca is the Spanish word for farm. Sometimes the term Hacienda is used to imply an Estate, which would mean the farm has its own wet-mill.... El Olivo | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Oaxaca | Mark: | El Olivo Farm |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 2002 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 16/17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica |
| Dry FragranceIn the cupping procedure for tasting and scoring coffee, this is the smell of the dry, ground coffee before hot water is added. The term fragrance is used...: | 82 | Notes: Oaxaca Pluma are the prototypical Mexican coffees in my book, better than the Coatepec coffees to the North. They have great balance, medium-light body, and wonderful flavor from the moderate acidity through to the aftertaste. The El Olivo is a true Pluma estate coffee and this year that in itself is remarkable (we have reports of many coffees sold as Plumas that are not, and from “eye-cupping” some pre-ship samples at a brokers sample room, I must say these so-called Plumas do not have the appearance or quality preparationPreparation refers to the dry-milling steps of preparing coffee for export: hulling, grading, classifying, sorting.: Preparation refers to the dry-milling steps of preparing coffee for export: hulling, grading,... of a true Oaxacan. We do not expect to stock the Fino Rojas or other San Pablos this year based on these pre-ship samples). The El Olivo coffee is beautifully prepared, almost blue-green in color, with only an occasional abberation. The roast is very even and it accepts a wide lattitude in terms of degree of roastDegree of Roast simply means the roast level of a coffee, how dark it has been roasted.: Degree of Roast simply means the roast level of a coffee,... to suit your taste. It has above average acidity for a Mexican coffee. It’s both exceptional as a straight roast and as a blend base for light and dark roasts. Great espresso potential too. | |||||
| Wet AromaIn cupping, wet aroma refers to the smell of wet coffee grinds, after hot water is added. It can involve smelling the "crust" (floating coffee grounds) on the...: | 82 | ||||||
| Brightness- LivelinessAnother euphemistic term to describe acidity in coffee. A lively coffee has more high, acidic notes. Not to be confused with the brighter roast flavors of light roast...: | 84 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 82 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 86 | Roast: City Roast: This coffee has great balance in the light roasts, but also offers a wide lattitude of great roast results. If you like it darker go ahead and try a Full City or Vienna roastVienna roast occurs at the beginning of second crack. The Vienna stage is where you begin to find origin character eclipsed by roast character.: Vienna roast occurs at.... I have tried this coffee as espresso too and it is excellent. | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 85 | ||||||
| Score: | 83.2 | Compare to: Premium Oaxaca Plumas, on par with Fino Rojas when it was in its prime , or the best San Pablo coffees from ’00 crop | |||||
| Mexican Natural Decaf, Cepco Co-op | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Putla – Mixteca | Mark: | CEPCO |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 00/01 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 16-18 Screen | Varietal: | |
| Dry Fragrance: | 82 | Notes: This new lot of Mexican Natural Decaf originates with a slightly higher quality coffee than the Esmeralda decaf. Cepco is the Mexican farmer cooperative that produces some of our best Mexican coffees, like the excellent San Augustin Loxicha coffee. This coffees has a very distinct, attractive aromaAroma refers to sensations perceived by the olfactory bulb and conveyed to the brain; whether through the nose or "retro-nasally": The aromatics of a coffee greatly influence its... while it roasts and the cup is mild and has a very pleasant nuttiness. It has medium body and a light aftertaste. Because it is nuttyNutty is a broad flavor term, reminiscent of nuts ... but what kind exactly?: Nutty is a broad flavor term, reminiscent of nuts. It is tied intrinsically to... and mild, its great as a crowd-pleasing straight roast or as a base for a decaf blend, either for drip coffee or espresso. Cup quality rates a tad better than Esmeralda but it is very much “cut from the same cloth” and I think the difference between them is more academic in terms of character. But I like the fact this is a co-op coffee, is the same price as Esmeralda, decaffeinated in the same place (Cafiver) and it benefits the farmers to a greater degree. Check out our article on decaffeination. …or some information from Cafiver in Mexico. | |||||
| Wet Aroma: | 81 | ||||||
| Brightness- Liveliness: | 83 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 84 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 84 | Roast: This coffee has a very wide lattitude …roast you your preference: City, Full City, Vienna or French | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 81 | ||||||
| Score: | 82.5 | Compare to: Mild, balanced Mexican Oaxaca coffees | |||||
| Mexican Organic/ FT Chiapas SWPSWP means Swiss Water Process is a patented water filtration decaf method, not a chemical solvent method. The plant is in Vancouver, Canada. Decaf | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | Altura EP | Region: | Chiapas | Mark: | Organic, Fair Trade Certified |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 00/01 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 16 screen | Varietal: | Bourbon, Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance: | 82 | Notes: I realize many customers want to buy only the Swiss Water Process decafs but these present a special challenge to a cupperOne who cups, or tastes and evaluates, coffee.: A cupper is a person who performs the somewhat formal analysis of coffee quality, called cupping. See the definition of.... The SWP process really takes its toll on the cup quality of the coffee and it is entirely probable to send a very good coffee to the decaffeinator, and end up with swill, So when I find a nice SWP decaf, I buy! That was the case with this Organic, Fair Trade certified one. It has a nice light body and a sweet, simple cup character with that nice slightly floralFloral notes in coffee exemplify the connection between taste and smell. Describing the taste of a specific flower is near impossible...we always default to “it tastes like it... acidity you find in good coffee from Chiapas. I am not promising fireworks in this cup! But if you want to enjoy a mild, light-bodied decaf with nice balance and flavor, this might be a welcome respit from the Ethiopian Harars and KenyaKenya is the East African powerhouse of the coffee world. Both in the cup, and the way they run their trade, everything is topnotch.: Kenya is the East... Estate coffees of the world… | |||||
| Wet Aroma: | 80 | ||||||
| Brightness- Liveliness: | 82 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 80 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 84 | Roast: A lighter City roast preserves the brightness in the cup. See our notes on roasting decafs, especially the dark-colored Swiss Water ones! | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 81 | ||||||
| Score: | 82.2 | Compare to: Nice, simple sweet Central American coffeeCentral American coffee is known for its "classic," balanced profile.: Central American coffee is known for its "classic," balanced profile. Centrals are primarily wet-processed since the climate is...! | |||||
-
Country: Mexico Grade: HG Altura Region: Oaxaca Pluma, San Pablo Mark: Becafisa Processing: Washed Crop: 2001 Appearance: 1 d/300gr17/18 scr Varietal: Typica 
Dry Frag./ Wet Aroma:82/82Notes: The San Pablo sold under the Becafisa Tres Flechas (trans. Three Arrows) mark is a really great Mexican coffee for straight roasts, blending, and espresso blend base (for a sweet, clean espresso). This coffee is a beautiful bluish green in color, hinting at freshness, good picking / preparation, and a good moisture content. Ukers All About Coffee talks about fine Mexican coffees with a beautiful jade color and a white stripe down the center. This always confused me, and I thought it was another Ukers anachronysm, but this coffee DOES have a distinct stripe of very white chaffChaff is paper-like skin that comes off the coffee in the roasting process. Chaff from roasting is part of the innermost skin (the silverskin) of the coffee fruit.... It is a really great cup and as a lark we conducted a bling cuppingCupping is a method of tasting coffee by steeping grounds in separate cups for discrete amounts of ground coffee, to reveal good flavors and defects to their fullest.... with 3 JamaicaJamaica coffee can be excellent mild, lush coffee... sometimes. Like Kona and Puerto Rican coffee, it is soft, mild, clean and well balanced when it is good.: Ah... Blue Mountain samples and the Tres Flechas. This was a totally blind cupping with Jovan and I: we both picked the Mexican as the best cup! Nice chocolate notes, spice, and for a Mexican quite a lot of brightness …acidity. With the right roast, it rocks. BTW San Pablo is a town, Tres Flechas is an exporter’s mark. Brightness- Liveliness:84Body- Movement:82Flavor- Depth:83Finish- Conclusion:84Roast: City to Full City …dont burn this stuff! A tad into 2nd OK. Or its great as a blend base in Continental or French roastSugars are heavily caramelized (read as burned) and are degraded; the woody bean structure is carbonizing, the seed continues to expand and loose mass, the body of the... degrees of roast. Score:82.8Compare to: good Mexican, very good Mexican!
Mexican Washed RobustaAteng is a common name for Catimor coffees widely planted in Sumatra and other Indonesia isles.: Ateng, with several subtypes, is a common name for Catimor coffees widely... Country: Mexico Grade: – Region: Coatepec Mark: – Processing: Wet-processed Crop: ’02 Appearance: 1 d/300gr, 17 Screen Varietal: CoffeaThe botanical genus colloquially referred to as the “coffea genus,” which is comprised of over 120 individual species. These are generally opposite-leaved, evergreen shrubs or small understory trees... Canefora Dry Fragrance: n/a Notes: This is a premium RobustaRobusta usually refers to Coffea Robusta, responsible for roughly 25% of the world's commercial coffee. Taxonomy of Robusta is debated: some sources use “Robusta” to refer to any... that is on par with the best washed robusta from IndiaS-795 is a variety based on the " S-Line" coffees of India, and stands for Selection 795, It has a very fine cup, one of the best in... or IndonesiaUSDA is (obviously) the United States Department of Agriculture. USDA also had coffee plant breeding programs in the past and one variety they distributed to Indonesia and was.... I say that only based on my experience: I can’t tell the difference between 12.5% of this in my espresso blend and 12.5% of that. It is extremely well prepared and has almost no chaff. There is but 1 defectIn coffee, a defect refers to specific preparation problems with the green coffee, or a flavor problem found in the cupping process. Bad seeds in the green coffee... per 300 gram sample.
Remember, we offer Robusta only for use in espresso! I do not recommend ever using robusta in filter coffee (it also has at least double the caffeineAn alkaloidal compound that has a physiological effect on humans, and a bittering taste. It is found throughout the coffee plant but is more concentrated in the seed... as coffea arabicaArabica refers to Coffea Arabica, the taxonomic species name of the genus responsible for around 75% of the worlds commercial coffee crop.: Arabica refers to Coffea Arabica, the...) …and I barely recommend it for espresso. I prefer most of my espresso without robusta. But I do find that 10-15% of this added the to our Espresso Monkey Blend adds that certain bite to the cup.
Wet Aroma: n/a Brightness- Liveliness: n/a Body- Movement: n/a Flavor- Depth: n/a Roast: For espresso blends: roast to your personal preference. Finish- Conclusion: n/a Score: n/a Compare to: Premium washed Robusta
Mexican Organic Chiapas -Finca Las Chiapas Country: Mexico Grade: HG Region: Chiapas Mark: Las Chiapas Farm Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 00/01 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16 screen Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance: 78 Notes: I like to think I can tell a lot about a coffee from all the steps before cupping it: looking at the green seeds, roast aromas, tasting a few beans after roasting …none of these are part of the cupping procedure. And often I do get a good sense of what to expect in the cup. The Las Chiapas was unimpressive, good preparation but very small seeds. Eating a couple beans it really tasted baked (even though the roast process in a HW Precision was fine). Even the dry aroma and wet fragrance was flat. So the flavors that emerged in the cup were a real shocker. It’s intense for a Mexican coffee. Yes, the body is light like other Mexican coffees, but it has excellent deep flavors (pineyA slightly resinous pine sap flavor, unusual but attractive in some cases., resinous, spicy), a real pungency, and a long aftertaste. Nothing keeps coffee interesting like a good suprise… Wet Aroma: 78 Brightness- Liveliness: 82 Body- Movement: 84 Flavor- Depth: 86 Roast: Full City: Wide latitude of roast I particularily liked how the deeper roast flavors a few snaps into the second crack underscored the origin flavors. Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 82.2 Compare to: Non-fuity Central Americans, pungent spicy Colombians.
Misc. & Blends
African Highland WP Decaf Blend Country: Kenya, EthiopiaEthiopia, formerly known as Abyssinia, or a coffee cultivar: Ethiopia, or more specifically the Empire under Haile Selassie, was known as Abyssinia. The name is Latin, derived from... Grades: AA Auction Lot, 2 Regions: Aberdare, Yirgacheffe Mark: Auction Lot, MAO
Chops: 5004Processing: Wet-processed, then decaf by Water Process Crop: 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 scr Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: Bright, light bodied, full of character and “snap”. I am not talking describing a person although a few come to mind. The new Water Process method used to decaffeinated this coffee leaves an astounding amount of cup character. I always felt that the SWP decaf was weakest when applied to bright, acidic high-toned coffees. They cupped like water flavored with cardboard. So this blend here is, to me, the ultimate triumph of our new Water Process decaf source (from Mexico, although the DO use the same method essentially as official SWP coffee -which is processed in Canada actually). It is an “indirect contact”, non-chemical process that is truly a water filtration process. The other factor is that other decafs sometimes don’t originate with the best green coffees. This is a true Auction Lot Kenya blended 50-50 with one of the best Ethiopian Yirgacheffe lots from this season. As I mentioned, it is a coffee that is lighter in body, bright (striking the front of the palate and tongue in the center-front and front-sides), and very fruityIn some coffee taster’s lexicon, “fruity” means the coffee is tainted with fruit, and “fruited” means a coffee is graced by positive fruit notes. We don't exactly see.... Although the scores are already very high for a decaf, I objectively felt the cup rates higher than a combined 86 so there is a “Cupper’s Correction” of 2. Wet Aroma (1-5) 4 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 9 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 8 Body – Movement (1-5) 3 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8 Roast: While this coffee becomes sharply pungent in darker roasts, I really enjoy its bright, fruity character too much to roast it that way. I keep it light, stopping the roast at Full City, right at the verge of 2nd crack but not into it. Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 2 Compare to: Bright, light-bodied coffees like the fruity Ethiopian Yirgacheffe. If you like our Ethiopian MC decaf you will probably enjoy this too… add 50 50 Score (Max. 100) 87
Myanmar (Burma)
Myanmar (Burma) Rubyland Country: Myanmar Grade: 1 Region: “Rubyland” Mark: ThayetkoneEstate Processing: Dry-Processed Crop: 2000 Appearance: 2d/300gr Varietal: Dry Frag./ Wet Aroma:80 /78 Notes: You’ll think you received a premium dry-processed BrazilBrazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "they grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil".: Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra... when you see the Myanmar Arabica for the first time. It really looks like a dry-processed Cerrado. This is a new coffee on the market in the US, and a “borderline” specialty coffeeSpecialty coffee was a term devised to mean higher levels of green coffee quality than average "industrial coffee" or "commercial coffee". At this point, the term is of... in some respects. While the cup has tons of body, almost oily!, there’s an aggressive tarryA dark roast-related flavor of pungent, intense bittering roast flavor, reminiscent of the smell of tar. taste that seems laced with garlic. It’s somewhat Indonesian in the body and earthiness, but mostly an herbaceous Brazil. It has positive qualities, possibly taints, but I thought it would be fun to share his coffee with you folks. Commercial roasters are starting to use this as a dark roast blending base or body enhancer, and it has DEFINITE espresso possibilities. It’s very amusing to see an “estate” name on the bag! I assume somebody went to an SCAA conference and heard that “estate” coffees sell for more money… Brightness- Liveliness:78 Body- Movement:88 Flavor- Depth:77 Finish- Conclusion:76 Roast: I like it best at “an aggressive Full City Roast” or darker. Its great with cream. Its weird. Score:79.5Compare to: Brazils
Nicaragua
Nicaragua Matagalpa-Jinotega: Carlos Fonseca Country: Nicaragua Grade: SHG Region: Matagalpa- Jinotega Mark: Cecocafen Co-op,
“Carlos Fonseca”Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Arabica Typica, some Bourbon Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.2 Notes: Matagalpa and Jinotega are (along with Segovia) the premier growing regions for SHG -Strictly High Grown- Nicaragua coffees. Matagalpa and Jinotega are side-by-side and most coffees have adjacent farms in each region. But the combined name of the two regions makes for such a long name that I can’t fit it all on our list! Anyway, this coffee is a very attractive cup, a little short in the aftertaste and a little lighter in body than some of the coffees from these regions we have had, but try this cup and you’ll know why it jumped out at us on the cupping table! This coffee is from a coop Cecocafen, and some tricky person there managed to name this particularly excellent lot (cooperatively harvested from the small farms of coop members) after the founder of the revolutionary FSLN: Carlos Fonseca! The interplay between the lightly fruitedIn some coffee taster’s lexicon, “fruity” means the coffee is tainted with fruit, and “fruited” means a coffee is graced by positive fruit notes. We don't exactly see... brightness (faintly orangeOrange aromatics and flavors are prized in coffee, whether they take the form of sweet orange flesh and pulp, or orange peel. Orange flavors or aromatics can range... with a twist of rind) in the cup and the baker’s chocolate roast tasteThe set of flavors that result from the degree-of-roast.: Roast Taste is a term we started to distinguish it from "Origin Flavor". We use the "roast taste" term... are exquisite. There is a cinnamony aroma and flavor that pervade from start to finish, and a bittersweet pungent flavor in the aftertaste that rounds out the cup. It is this alternating sweet, bittersweet and pungent flavors that make it a really neat cup! (PS.: I have given this cup a rather large 2 point cuppers correctionThe cupper's correction is a term we use to measure the "intangible" qualities of a cup: if, for instance, a coffee totals 88 points, but it is high...: it is unfairly penalized for its medium-light body and aftertaste, and is a much better cup than an 83.7!) Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.0 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8.2 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 8.5 Body – Movement (1-5) 2.8 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8.0 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 2.0 Roast:a City roast stopped near 2nd crack, but with no indication at all that it reached 2nd crack is great. add 50 50.0 Compare to: Lighter in body than other Nicaraguans and than Colombians too, but a great interplay of flavors like the best of either of these two countries. Score (Max. 100) 85.7
Nicaragua SHG Nueva Esperanza Country: Nicaragua Grade: SHG Region: Matagalpa Mark: Nueva Esperanza Processing: Wet-processed Crop: mid-2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17/18+ Screen Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance: 84 Notes: There have been quite a few nice Nicaragua samples coming down the pipe this year. The Cup Of ExcellenceThe Cup of Excellence is a competition held yearly in many coffee-producing countries, designed to highlight the very best coffees from each origin.: The Cup of Excellence (COE)... auction has focused more attention on this origin,. which like PanamaPanama coffee ranges from medium quality lower altitude farms to those at 1600 - 1800 meters centered in the area of Boquete in the Chirqui district near the... is greatly under-rated in relation to its cup quality, and overall potential to produce great coffee. But the best Nicaraguan samples I received were not from the auction lots, they were from other single-farm sources. This Nueva Esperanza is one (and the Carlos Fonesca we will have later is another). Of the two, the Nueva Esperanza is the bolder cup, with distinctive rooty/aromatic woodyGenerally a taste defect from age; old green coffee, perhaps yellowing in color. This is due to the drying out of the coffee over time, and as the... roast notes emerging at the lighter end of the spectrum (City/Full City) and turning into great pungency a little lighter in the roast. The suprise is the slightly sweet acidic brightness that balances out the cup, making it a true “complete” single-origin cupping experience rather than a “blender” status that Nicaraguans used to be relegated to (and some lower grown HG ones still are only that, a blender). And at this price this is truly an incredible cup for the money! Wet Aroma: 84 Brightness- Liveliness: 86 Body- Movement: 87 Flavor- Depth: 87 Roast: As stated above, this coffee has a huge great character and can be roasted to a wide degree of roasts …it’s great at medium (City) roast, Full City and even toward Vienna –a bit into 2nd crack. But the chocolate roast taste and peak complexity is at Full City, just a couple snaps into 2nd crack. Finish- Conclusion: 86 Score: 85.4 Compare to: Excellent Colombians, but with more aggressive roast flavors, balanced and full of character
Nicaragua SHG Segovia -Canta Gallo Co-op Country: Nicaragua Grade: SHB Region: Segovia Mark: Canta Gallo Co-op Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2001 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17/18 Screen Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance: 83 Notes: The Segovia from Nicaragua bears some resemblence to the Mexican Oaxaca Pluma, more so than it resembles the Nicaraguan Jinotega-Matagalpa coffees. It is interestingly soft, and intense: the acidity is moderate, it is full-bodied, and is quite mild at first. The first flavors you might get are a soft milk-choclate roast taste, which fades into a really interesting aromatic woodyness (not at all like the woody flavor defect that reveals a coffee is past cropRefers to an older coffee not from the "New Crop" or the "Current Crop". Cuppers will even use it as a general term for baggy, old hay or..., or possibly improperly stored.) It finishes rather mild but then seems to hang around a bit with a pungent slightly carbony aftertaste …very nice! And as you continue to sip this coffee the aftertaste seems to accumulate. I always wwaonder of this quality is directly related to the heavy body of a coffee: if it has more “Soluble Solids” which make you sense a thickness in the cup, it might also follow that these solids would be retained on the palate and give a long, slowly-diminshing aftertaste, or even a sort of phantom “return” of flavor. Nonetheless, this is a great coffee, and the pungency lead me to try an unorthodox espresso test with it: 100% Canta Gallo Espresso! Try it, its remarkable! Wet Aroma: 83 Brightness- Liveliness: 84 Body- Movement: 87 Flavor- Depth: 87 Roast: City to Full City. The coffee has darker roast characteristics even in the lighter roasts. Very interesting as espresso too, although you should expect a little less cremaCrema is a dense foam that floats on top of a shot of espresso. It ranges in color from blond to reddish-brown to black. Blond crema may be... since its wet-processed coffee. Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 84.8 Compare to: Mexican Oaxaca Pluma!
Nicaragua SHG Matagalpa -Selva Negra Estate
Notes: Matagalpas are known for their excellent depth and pungent flavors. Selva Negra is one of the most respected Estates from the region, both for their environmentally sustainable farming methods and for the excellent cup. Like any Estate-level coffees, the coffee does vary from year to year and this is the best Selva Negra I have had for the past 2 seasons. It has excellent chocolate flavor, that has hints of aromatic wood to it, and spiceyness. The acidity is in balance with the other flavors and reveals itself as the cup cools. Multiple coexistent flavors like this are the benchmark of good complexity, flavors that alternate as you try to get a sense of them. Its what every cupper appreciates; an interesting sensory problem! And its what makes the Selva Negra great… This coffee is Shade GrownA somewhat ambiguous term used to describe coffee grown under shade. Shade grown coffee is said to better preserve animal habitats and avoid mono-culture on farms, but the... on one of the most beautiful coffee estates in Nicaragua, where coffee trees are interplanted with native forest. I have met the farm owner and have deep respect for the Selva Negra operation… this is ecologically aware coffee farming without the eco-certification, but with all the good sense.
Country: Nicaragua Grade: SHG Region: Matagalpa Mark: Selva Negra Estate Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2000 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17/18 scr Varietal: Typica Wet Aroma: 86 Brightness- Liveliness: 85 Body- Movement: 85 Flavor- Depth: 87 Roast: City, Full City OK too but this coffee has fully developed its body at a real medium roast and you loose some complexity if you let it enter 2nd crack. Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 85.7 Compare to: Particular Colombians such as Tolima district, and other great Matagalpa region Nicaraguas: flavorful, complexThe co-presence of many aroma and flavor attributes, with multiple layers. A general impression of a coffee, similar to judgments such as "balanced" or "structured", clean coffees…
Panama
Panama SHB Boquete -La Berlina Estate Country: Panama Grade: SHB Region: Boquete Mark: La Berlina Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16/18scr Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: The great cup from this La Berlina was a surprise, even after visiting the farm last year and seeing the incredibly old 18 foot tall Typica trees. I had cupped it in the past, and while I found it always to be a nice clean cupClean cup refers to a coffee free of taints and defects. It does not imply sanitary cleanliness, or that coffees that are not clean (which are dirty) are... it was always outdone by such coffees as the Lerida estate coffee from Boquete. But Lerida has replanted with new hybrids and the cup shows it. Berlina is 100% traditional Typica cultivarCultivar is a term used interchangeably with Varietal in the coffee trade to indicate plant material, although there are distinctions.: The naming of a cultivar should conform to.... It has remarkable brightness, complexity and depth for a clean Central American cup, easily as good or better than the best lots of Lerida I have had. Panama is basically an under-rated coffee in total, always playing second fiddle to the big name Costa Ricans and Guatemalans. But when you put this Berlina cup up against many of the Tarrazus from Costa RicaCosta Rican coffee is typically very clean, sweet, with lots of floral accents. hey are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity,..., it rates higher. The coffee is expertly prepared, fairly large bean size for Panama of the longer Typica, the old arabica cultivars. The cup really shimmers: bright citrus passes quickly to spice and sharp lively chocolate flavors. The aftertastes is moderate and thoroughly enjoyable. Just outstanding, hence and overall cupper’s correction of +2 to communicate the attractiveness of this cup. Wet Aroma (1-5) 3 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 9 Body – Movement (1-5) 3 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 2 Compare to: Other high-grown Centrals that have complexity: Guats & Costa Rican Tarrazus.
Roast: City, through first crackFirst crack in one of two distinct heat-induced pyrolytic reactions in coffee. It is distinguished by a cracking or popping sound in the coffee, and occurs between 390... and not yet to second. You will lose some complexity in this coffee in a darker roast, so I would keep it from going into second crack at all.
add 50 50 Score (Max. 100) 86
Panama Boquete -Finca Maunier Country: Panama Grade: SHB, EP Region: Boquete, Vocancito Mark: Maunier Estate Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Typica, Bourbon, Caturra Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: Monsieur Gilbert Maunier was the French founder of Finca Maunier, but after the farm reached maturity he decided to move to Costa Rica and he sold the Finca to another Boqueteño that eventually sold it to Mr. Plinio Ruiz. With his expertise he developed a biodiverse coffee plantation keeping the original shade trees and planting separated lots for each of the three varieties. The original Finca philosophy remains the same. The first coffee roastingThe application of heat to green coffee seeds (beans) to create palatable material for brewing a great cup!: Coffee roasting is a chemical process induced by heat, by... machine that Mr. Ruiz acquired belonged to Mr. Maunier. The farm is all above 1500 meters, and all the processing takes place in the Casa Ruiz facility in the town of Boquete. The coffee was awarded the 2nd place in the 2002 Panama Auction and 8th last year, but this is not the auction lot coffee here. The coffee is blended from cultivars as such: Typica 40%, Bourbon 15%, Caturra 45%. What the Maunier had over the competing lots was depth and complexity. It has lower acidity than the other winning coffees, but a great mild fruity-winey character, excellent body compared to the other auction samples, and hints of spice. The roast taste is sweet and a bit butterscotch. Cupping it next to the la Minita of Costa Rica, I find them very much on par. 
At Finca Maunier, 2001Wet Aroma (1-5) 3 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 8 Body – Movement (1-5) 3 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 1 Roast: Preserve the fruitiness and complexity by roasting to City stage and don’t let this coffee get into the second crack much. add 50 50 Compare to: The best Centrals, especially the great years of Costa Rican Tarrazu coffees back in the ’80s. Score (Max. 100) 84
Panama Auction Winner -Mama Cata Estate Country: Panama Grade: SHB Region: Boquete Mark: Mama Cata Estate, 2002 Panama Auction 1st Place Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17/18scr Varietal: Typica Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: I visited the farm that was right across the narrow dirt lane from Mama Cata. That was the well-known Finca Lerida, winner of the 2001 Panama Auction (we bought that winning lot last year too). They both share some of the highest altitude of Boquete coffees, above the Finca La Berlina (a 100% Typica farm) and Maunier. There was a striking difference between the two farms. Lerida seems to be replanting their land with higher yield arabica cultivar, Caturra. But Mama Cata appears to be planted entirely with the tall, rangy Typica cultivar. While it yields less than more modern hybrids, old “traditional” cultivar trees last longer, and there is the notion that a plant that is not stressed by the overproduction of fruit (coffee cherryOriginally coffee literature referred to the fruit of the tree as a "berry" but in time it became a cherry. It is of course neither. Nor is the...) will produce better cup quality in the fewer cherryEither a flavor in the coffee, or referring to the fruit of the coffee tree, which somewhat resembles a red cherry.: Either a flavor in the coffee, or... it yields. Folks like me traveling to coffee lands are often proven wrong, and cup really good coffees produced by newer cultivars, but we always want to cup the Typica (and Bourbon) varietals first. Anyway, I was part of the panel that picked the Mama Cata (in totally blind cupping from 28 finalist lots) and the cup character I remember down in Panama impresses me each time I enjoy this coffee here at home. It doesn’t knock the socks off – it charms them off. The aromatics are attractive and sweet. The roast develops a pungency that cups like an Antigua from Guatemala, mildly alkaloidDry and bittering flavors, usually in the aftertaste, caused by alkaline substances,: A taste sensation characterized by a dryness and related bittering flavors, sometimes at the posterior of.../chocolaty, but is offset by a black cherry fruitiness. Wet Aroma (1-5) 4 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 9 Body – Movement (1-5) 4 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8 Roast: The Mama Cata is one of the Centrals that takes a wide latitude of roasts, and band that spans the City to Vienna spectrum. I enjoy the mildly sharp tang that develops this roast about 10 seconds into 2nd crack. Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 1 Compare to: Reminiscent of last years winner, Finca Lerida … not surprising since they across the road from eachother! add 50 50 Score (Max. 100) 87
Panama Finca Hartmann “Songbird” Country: Panama Grade: SHB Region: Volcan Baru, Chirqui Mark: Hartmann Farm Processing: Wet process, sun-dried Crop: 02 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: Typica, Caturra Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.0 Notes: This coffee from the Northeast mountain state of Chirqui has a beautiful dark green-blue appearance (fresh, new cropRefers to fresh shipments of green coffee within the first month or two of the earliest arrivals ... not quite the same as Current Crop, which means the...), with a delicate light-bodied cup that will win over your friends and relatives to the merits of home roasting. Very pleasant clean sweet taste with a unique cedar aromatic woodiness in the finish. This hints that this is Sr. Hartmann’s special lot of coffee that he dries in a special wooden Bodega next to the patios on the farm. The humidity and native hardwoods give the coffee a characteristic flavor -very subtle but unmistakable. It’s not a super complex coffee overall, just real fine and delicate. To get a full sense of this acidity, taste it hot and taste it cool too. In fact, my first sip of it is always a little disappointing based on the wonderful aromatics you get when grinding it. But a lot of bright coffees are this way. As it cools the bright notes that make it so special are fleshed out, and you will fall in love with this coffee by the time you reach the last sip. The Volcan Chirqui is right at the Costa Rican border so it is not a wonder that the coffee cups like a bright, delicate Costa Rican. For more information on the Hartmann farm, see our review of the 2002 Panama Cupping Competition. The Hartmann land is a model of sustainable farming and bird-friendly, shade grown agriculture with much of the farm preserved as forest … in a bitterBitterness is one of 5 basic tastes: Sour, Sweet, Salty, Bitter and Umami (savory flavors). There are many types of bitterness, hence not one avenue to tracking down... irony it does not qualify as certified bird-friendly because of very limited use of nitrogen fertilizer! Wet Aroma (1-5) 4.0 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 7.0 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 7.0 Body – Movement (1-5) 2.0 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8.0 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 2.0 Roast: I prefer this at a light City roast to accentuate the moderate acidity and that unique woody note in the aftertaste. add 50 50 Compare to: Light-bodied delicate coffees, similar to Coast Ricans from the southern areas of La Amistad, the Boquete coffees of Panama, and also similar to some of the Chiapas coffees from the south of Mexico. Score (Max. 100) 83.0
Panama Boquete -Finca Maunier Country: Panama Grade: SHB, EP Region: Boquete, Vocancito Mark: Maunier Estate Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2001 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Typica 40%, Bourbon 15%, Caturra 45% 
Dry Fragrance: 86 Notes: Monsieur Gilbert Maunier was the French founder of Finca Maunier, but after the farm reached maturity he decided to move to Costa Rica and he sold the Finca to another Boquete�o that eventually sold it to Mr. Plinio Ruiz. With his expertise he developed a biodiverse coffee plantation keeping the original shade trees and planting separated lots for each of the three varieties. The original Finca philosophy remains the same. The first coffee roasting machine that Mr. Ruiz acquired belonged to Mr. Maunier. The farm is all above 1500 meters, and all the processing takes place in the Casa Ruiz facility in the town of Boquete. The coffee was awarded the 8th place in the 2001 Panama Cup of Excellence, but I chose it as my #2 coffee of all the samples, surpassed only by the Lerida. And in fact it might be the #1 coffee for those who want to avoid the citrusyQualities in coffee that are reminiscent of a citrus fruit; orange, lemon, grapefruit, kumquat, etc.: Qualities in coffee that are reminiscent of a citrus fruit; orange, lemon, grapefruit,... acidity of the Lerida. What the Maunier had over the competing lots was depth and complexity. It has lower acidity than the other 8 winning coffees, but a great fruity-winey character, excellent body, and hints of spice. The roast taste is sweetly butterscotch.
Please note: we offered the actual Auction-lot earlier this year. This is NOT the auction lot, but I was stunned that it cupped JUST LIKE the auction lot! That says a lot for the consistency of the coffee from this farm. In contrast, the Lerida Auction Lot was far superior to any subsequent Lerida offerings.
Wet Aroma: 87 Brightness- Liveliness: 86 Body- Movement: 86 Flavor- Depth: 88 Roast: As with the Lerida, preserve the fruitiness and complexity by roasting to City stage and don’t let this coffee get into the second crack much. Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 86.3 Compare to: The best Centrals, especially the great years of Costa Rican Tarrazu coffees back in the ’80s.
Panama Auction Winner -Finca Lerida Country: Panama Grade: SHB, EP Region: Boquete Mark: Lerida Estate, #1 in 2001 Panama Auction Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2001 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Var.Typica, Caturra 
Dry Fragrance: 87 Notes: Lerida Estate is situated in the valley of Boquete in the Northwestern part of Panama. Surrounded by 500 acres of tropical forest on the slopes of the Baru Volcano. It has volcanic soil, an altitude ranging from 1600 to 1700 meters above sea level, adequate rainfall with a sunny and dry harvesting season. The coffee cherries are harvested daily and go through a meticulous wet process in Lerida’s unique processing plant (few farms have their own wet-mill on the Finca). The beans are sun-dried and set to rest for no less than 60 days. The coffee in this lot is the sample submitted to the 2001 Panama Cup of Excellence Auction, where it was awarded the blue ribbon by the international panel of cupper’s, and received the highest bid in the auction, paid by Sweet Maria’s. It is from batches No.30-36, harvested on January 4-11, 2001. FermentationFermentation in coffee processing traditionally referred to the stage in wet-processing of the coffee. We now understand that fermentation happens more broadly in nearly all processes, including honey... took place from 39-48 hours. The sun drying process took an average of 11 days per batch. The cup character is the best coffee from the Lerida farm we have ever tasted, since it represents the “best of the best” the farm offers in the effort to win the #1 spot in the Auction. It is a bright, effervescently acidy coffee with sweet fruity/floral notes. The brightness has hints of fresh citrus and a touch of wineyness that rounds out the flavor in the finish. It is remarkable while on the palate, but light in body and medium in the aftertaste, as is characteristic of Panamanian coffee. The quality of this cup, in terms of high notes and complexity, surely ranks it as a Gran Cru of Central American coffee. Wet Aroma: 87 Brightness- Liveliness: 92 Body- Movement: 84 Flavor- Depth: 89 Roast: To preserve the fruitiness and complexity, don’t let this coffee get into the second crack much. A City roast is best, and a Full City with a few snaps of second crack will tone down some of the citrusy flavors and allow a black cherry flavor to emerge, with some light bittersweet caramelly notes. Finish- Conclusion: 87 Score: 87.7 Compare to: The best Centrals, especially the great years of Costa Rican Tarrazu coffees back in the ’80s.
Sorry: 5 Lb Limit per customer…
Panama SHB Boquete -La Berlina Estate Country: Panama Grade: SHB Region: Boquete Mark: La Berlina Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 2000 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16/18scr Varietal: Bourbon, Typica Dry Fragrance: 86 Notes: The great cup from this La Berlina was a surprise. I had cupped it in the past, and while I found it always to be a nice clean cup it was always outdone by such coffees as the Lerida estate coffee from Boquete. But this time Berlina was just outstanding. It has remarkable complexity and depth, easily as good or better than the best lots of Lerida I have had. Panama is basically an under-rated coffee, always playing second fiddle to the big name Costa Ricans and Guatemalands. But when you put this Berlina cup up against many of the Tarrazus from Costa Rica, it rates higher. The coffee is expertly prepared, fairly large bean size for Panama with a mixture of the rounder Bourbon varietal and the longer Typica, both old arabica cultivars. The cup really shimmers: bright citrus passes quickly to spice and chocolate flavors. The aftertastes is brief and thoroughly enjoyable. Just outstanding… Wet Aroma: 88 Brightness- Liveliness: 87 Body- Movement: 84 Flavor- Depth: 88 Roast: City, throught first crack and not yet to second. You will lose some complexity in this coffee in a darker roast, so I would keep it from going into second crack at all. Finish- Conclusion: 87 Score: 87 Compare to: Other high-grown Centrals that have complexity: Guats & Costa Rican Tarrazus.
Papua New GuineaPapua New Guinea (PNG) occupies the eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian province of Irian Jaya, part of Indonesia. The two primary areas for...
Papua New Guinea -Kinjibi Estate PeaberryA peaberry is a green coffee "bean" that has a rounded form: Coffee is the dried seed from the fruit of a flowering tree - each fruit having... Country: New Guinea Grade: PB Region: Waghi River Valley Mark: Kinjibi Estate Processing: Wet Process Crop: Late 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17 Screen Varietal: Typica, ArushaThe name of a cultivar from Tanzania, as well as a general trade name for Tanzania coffees from Mount Meru area. Arusha is also planted on estates in..., Nova Mundo Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: This is a newly arrived coffee grown on the 300 hectare Kinjibi Tribal Plantation, in nearby small plantations and local villagers “coffee gardens”. The coffee grown on the plantations are of the Typica (blue mountain), mundo novoA coffee cultivar; a cross between Typica and Bourbon, originally grown in Brazil: Mundo Novo is a commercial coffee cultivar; a natural hybrid between "Sumatra" and Red Bourbon,..., and arusha varieties. The village gardens range in size from 20 to 600 trees, exceptionally small compared to the size of farms in other producing nations. At a high altitude of 5500 to 5700 feet, the arabica coffee they grow is exceptional and of the Typica (blue mountain) and arusha varieties. Kinjibi Plantation has its own processing mill which benefits quality in that the cherry doesn’t have to travel great distances from the time it is picked to the beginning of the wet-processing; a very quality-critical part of the process that should occur within 12 hours. Kinjibi is imported by New Guinea Coffee Traders (http://www.newguineatraders.com/) into the US, a small family business focused on this one origin, and this one source, with the express goal of aiding indigenous coffee workers. We found the samples they sent to class right alongside the Kimel Plantation coffee, our favorite wet-process PNG cup for the past 2 years, with some interesting differences. I think the Kimel has more straightforward brightness in the cup, and the Kinjibi is more nuanced with spicy subtle flavors that emerge behind the dominant roast tastes. At these high growing altitudes, the brightness certainly is there, and provides an initial snap to the cup. It’s easy to overroast a peaberryThe Spanish-language term for Peaberry is the same for "snail". See Peaberry for more information on the single bean fruit of the coffee tree. A peaberry is the... like this; they simply have a different thermal quality than flat beanFlat bean simply means "normal" coffee beans with one flat side.: The normal coffee fruit has 2 seeds inside, facing each other on their flat side. A percentage... coffee and roast faster. But this coffee produces great cups throughout the City to Full City range, and a nice pungent cup at Vienna roast too. Wet Aroma (1-5) 3 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 8 Body – Movement (1-5) 3.5 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 1 Roast: A flexible coffee: City to Full City to Vienna-see above add 50 50 Compare to: On par with our Kimel Plantation coffee, but with perhaps more subtlety. Score (Max. 100) 84.5
Papua New Guinea -Purosa Estate Country: New Guinea Grade: A Region: Eastern Highlands Mark: Purosa Estate Processing: Wet Process Crop: 2002-2003 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Typicas, Others Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: I stocked the Purosa estate coffee several years ago (you’ll have to look at our pre-2000 reviews to find that one) and was really taken by it. It had been rated high in a trans-national cupping review and the comment from that was as follows: “only the two estate coffees from the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, Arona and Purosa, attracted the very highest level of enthusiasm and ratings from the panel, equal to the response provoked by the best coffees from Kenya, Guatemala and Ethiopia.” That’s high praise and might need some clarification. The Papua New Guinea is a “classic cup” profile, one with clean flavors that are found in Central American coffees without the fermenty-hidey-earthy character of rusticA general characterization of pleasantly "natural" flavors, less sophisticated and less refined, but appealing. : What is Rustic? This is a general term we came up with... Dried... coffees like dry-process Sumatras, Ethiopians and Yemens. So rating PNG vs. Guatemala makes a lot more sense because both share a very, very general cup profile. This cup is sweet, very aromatic, fruited with a touch of coffee cherry and a little vanillaVanilla notes in coffee are often related to caramelization notes, as butter and vanilla can be found in flavors and aromatics of roast reactions from reducing of sugars., and so balanced that it is hard to come up with adequate descriptions that don’t sound half-hearted : this is pleasant -I mean REALLY pleasant. Wet Aroma (1-5) 4 Brightness – Acidity (1-10) 8.2 Flavor – Depth (1-10) 8.5 Body – Movement (1-5) 4 Finish – Aftertaste (1-10) 8 Cupper’s Correction (1-5) 1 Roast: City or Full City. Roasted darker the Purosa loses too much character so stay on the light side. add 50 50 Compare to: Deeply balanced “classic” cup with great resonance, somewhat sweet, a great PNG coffee! Score (Max. 100) 86.7
Papua New Guinea -Kimel Plantation Grade A Country: Island of Papua New Guinea/ Irian Grade: A Region: Central Valley Mark: Kimel Plantation Processing: Wet-processed Crop: Late 2002 Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16 screen Varietal: Caturra, Arusha Typica Dry Fragrance: 83 Notes: Papua New Guinea occupies the Eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian provice of Irian (no organized coffee production originates from Irian) There can be a huge range of cups from Papua New Guinea, and the so-called Plantation coffees represent the cleaner character of the coffee produced on the island… more like a good Central American than part of the Indonesioan profile. The coffee plantations are larger farms that have their own coffee processing wet mills, so they are able to control all the variables of production better than the small farm “coffee gardens.” Kimel has great body and balance: butteryA mouthfeel description indicating thickness and creaminess, and can also be a flavor description.: Buttery is primarily a mouthfeel description indicating thickness and creaminess. It indicates a high... mouthfeelHow a coffee feels in the mouth or its apparent texture, a tactile sensation : A major component in the flavor profile of a coffee, it is a..., and acidity – flavors in very harmonious balance in the cup. It’s a “Classic” cup profile for sure! It makes an excellent vacuum-brewed cup too, and in a French PressA simple coffee brewer also called a Press Pot: grounds and hot water are added to a carafe, allowed to sit for several minutes, and then a filter... we have had great results using the roast recommendation below (blending 2 roasts together). Wet Aroma: 84 Brightness- Liveliness: 84 Body- Movement: 88 Flavor- Depth: 87 Roast: City (Medium), this is coffee has fine, delicate flavors that get obliterated in darker roasts. But for an interesting cup, try roasting one batch to a light City roast, another to a Full City (a few snaps into second crack) and then blend them together! It brings out interesting dimensions in the cup while keeping with the single-origin roasting tradition. Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 86.2 Compare to: Compares more to Central Americans more often than other Indonesians like SumatraIndonesians are available as a unique wet-hulled or dry-hulled (washed) coffees. Giling Basah is the name for the wet-hulling process in Bahasa language, and will have more body... –Although TimorTimor-Leste (East Timor) is a tiny island between Australia and Sulawesi, annexed by Indonesia and liberated in a referendum several years ago. Small scale coffee farming was jump-started... bears resemblence too.
Papua New Guinea Organic AA Country: Sumatra Grade: AA Island Region: Papua New Guinea Mark: Organic Certified Processing: Wet-processed Crop: 00/01 Appearance: 1 d/300gr,17/18scr Varietal: Sumatra Wet Aroma: 84 Brightness- Liveliness: 82 Body- Movement: 83 Flavor- Depth: 86 Notes: It has been tough to find a good Papua New Guinea coffee this year. I often think the Organics are superior: they are traditional varietals grown on small farms. Its just a matter of exactly whose small farms they are pooled from, and the overall quality of the crop year. To find a good organic Papua New Guinea there is no method other than cupping every lot you can get your hands on. I went through 5 to find this one. It is the larger AA grade bean size (the Organics tend to be large, I think because they are descended from the Jamaican coffee stock that was used to plant Papua New Guinea originally!) Smallholder farms can be the best IF the co-op that organizes themselves for organic certification maintains high standards and good milling practices. I think that’s the case with this lot here, and while there are a few misshapen seeds in here, the cup quality is excellent: good balance and complexity, that slight gamy/tea-like flavor that distinguishes the good PNG Organics.
Roast: I prefer a Full City roast on the PNG, just to the verge of Second crack, but not entering it.
Finish- Conclusion: 85 Score: 84.0 Compare to: Medium acidity, great balance, good body, interesting midrange flavors.
